This was an issue with some but not all machines but it was Firmware related.
Please go to this fellows channel and check out his videos. He is very detailed in his descriptions and has helped me many times.
Cheers and Happy Printing,
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Thanks for posting this.
@ajordan : Just to be clear: this doesnât apply to you. Your problem, as you know, is a hardware failure but it wouldnât hurt to have thermal runaway protection enabled if you havenât already done so.
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I have the latest firmware as far as I know Version 2.0.9_DW 7.4. I canât find anywhere on the screen to enable/disable thermal runaway. I assume that is hard coded. There is a YouTube video that shows a guy using a hair dryer on cool to test this. Also Bryan Vines has a better way to test, see: https://youtu.be/z5s2iXBpnrc?t=425. I just tested mine that way and my printer halted after about 5 minutes. This works for the hot end as well as the heated bed.
It is indeed enabled in firmware only. Thereâs no real reason to disable it except one: people who use their printers in the garage in winter often have to preheat the bed with a hair drier so the printer will start a print. Apparently itâs OK after that (they have enclosures).
Hi new here, having the same issue and more
been to hell with my cr10spro vr1
can anybody suggest another motherboard so i can just rebuild this machine with different brains? also have a heated chamber and i have made water cooling system for extruder stepper and the ssr (so something better that i can run those things maybe octoprint too ? basically i dont trust the creality controls any more and i need to print high temp and large format asap
im savy with soldering and fabricating , i do my own circuit board repairs and such
the below is over the last 2 yrs kinda my log on it
cr-10s pro (bad unit log) arrived with broken fan shroud , the( 3d printed air scoop part ) . the aluminum metal bed plate was warped bad , i put it on a glass table it rocked back and forth. could not get a good bed mesh. it was all over the map, then i realized the gantry was missing steps and would not hold levelâŚso calibration was inconsistent and prints were bad, nozzle scraping brand new bed kinda bad. the sensor would get incorrect readings when auto leveling and z home too,
i adjusted to many different heights but it still crashed the bed scraping the coating many times. sensor got worse over time until to work it had to almost be touching the print bed (.60)when nozzle was at .20. more than five times firmware would just get stuck some times while warming up , some times in the middle of printing, it stuck just sitting there with nozzle melting the print. the screen frozen. firmware doesnât work when plugged into laptop with blue cable, cant run the machine without using memory card. (really dont like this)i cant just send a print. The filament sensor was scraping the incoming material. the filament leaver arm was not assembled properly or missing spacers and or washers as it was binding on tension spring. the pivot or guide arm screw was being stripped out causing filament arm to scrape hard against the base, this caused print to fail at the drive gears. this caused my nozzle to be burnt ,stuck and clogged , being burnt caused damaged Capricorn tube. smelled electrical fire , turned off printer in the middle of a 3hr print. opened up bottom to find the SSR relay burnt and melted off mounting plate and hanging loose .
i have spent many hours and moneys to try and make work and am upset. I replaced warped bed with magnetic spring steel bed(wham bam), used my FlashForge Creator pro to print motor blocks to raise gantry motors up to have lead screws stick out the top , added pulleys and belt to top of lead screws to make them in sync and stop gantry from drooping and motors loosing steps. I threw out original bed sensor and replaced it with a new sensor mount and new BLtouch sensor. replaced firmware with TinyMachines3d version firmware to run the BLtouch sensor and add Thermal Runaway Protection. disassembled filament drive system and take to machine shop, drilled out stripped/damaged pivot mounting hole and repaired damaged threads, i used machinist to make new axle pin with bigger screw threads to fix stripped out threads. made new combination of screw and spacer to stop the binding of the tension spring. printed a ball Bering guide to stop filament scraping the sensor, replaced Capricorn tubing as it was stuck inside original burnt nozzle. replaced orib
inal nozzle with Micro Swiss nozzle. 2nd Bltouch (it destroyed one for dinner) , from calibrated press to start print machine looses z steps (not mechanical) causing crash to bed once print starts. this i could never fix , spent 2 weeks with AJ at tny3d , we never fixed it did everything 3 times over, only way i can even try starting prints is way off the deck and ramping down to the bed manually⌠replaced original SSR with new 100 amp one. didnt solve it testing the ssr is working , but the cause of the problem, is mosfet on motherboard were not soldered well so one is just falling off , this is why it almost caught fire as when mosfet fails, when it does it fails the SSR into the on power position . replaced the ao5d14 mosfet on the mb and as of now bed just starts heating as soon as machine powers on same as before. no control of heat bed. so very frustrated.
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