An x nozzle is a hardened steel nozzle made from vanadium carbides. It is very hard and resists wear. With brass nozzles and my typical printing amount (800gm a week +) I was replacing nozzles almost every week. More abrasive (filled materials, carbon, and glow) more often. When a material would string with settings that normally work well, or you get blobs and such, I pulled the nozzle. The X nozzle has run 6 KG and is still perfect as near as I can tell. It needs to out last at least 10 brand name nozzles to be worth it. So far so good.
One of my printers would start under extruding in around that range, it sometimes would stop completely 30 layers later. On occasion loosely 50 layers after that it would start again.In mid air…
I traced it to an over heated stepper. I hope that isn’t your issue but it is a remote possibility. The micro swiss doesn’t use reduction gearing like the E3D DDs typically do. It puts and heavier load on the stepper. Extruder steppers and generally smaller and lighter (too keep the weight down) they could be more prone to overheating. This can manifest in missed steppes where it stops turning and you get little gaps, then more gaps then nothing.
It doesn’t usually click but it could if the filament over heats because it isn’t being moved then as it trys to push again it could clog with burn’t filament.
Do the x nozzles have different bore sizes? Might be worth getting a couple of different size if they’re really that good.
I did actually consider stepper overheating but when I was doing my last print I touched the stepper and it was nice and cool so hopefully that’s all good…
cr10 is a MK6 I THINK. So no it will not. Zodiac makes one that will I believe.
I am also not 100% convinced on it yet. Make up your own mind I have yet to have an opinion.
I am very fast to replace nozzles it seems to me if you have a really high end car lets say an F1 race car, and then you put the cheapest tires you can on it. it will hurt performance. I always buy name brand nozzles they are better in my experience than cheap copies. People whom have machined them in half have demonstrated this to be true as well. I find they print better. Nozzles seem to be the last place to save a few $$.
I would suggest use a few brass ones for the moment, get used to the machine, the farther from stock you go the harder it is to get help. Hardened steel nozzles are well different. Hard to put a finger on it but in that odd voodoo gut thing. I think they takes longer to heat up so if the printer is fast out of the gate it might be cool for the first layers. This is the kind of weird crap that will makes you crazy. Stick to the standard one so when you do switch you are really familiar to ‘normal’ and it will be easier to tune abnormal in.
Just thought of something… I actually don’t have the standard Creality extruder for the 10s Pro. I upgraded to the Micro Swiss all metal hot end. Does that mean I can only use Micro Swiss nozzles?
Yeah I’m investigating. I bought a set of creality nozzles before I knew that the pro had a different thread but I have never tested them out. They MIGHT fit in the Micro Swiss hot end… not sure. It’d be nice if they did for sure…
Sounds to me like you have a jam if your retractions are set above 2 this could have caused it, or if your heat sink fan is not working right or broken blade. You will have to take it apart and clean it out. Next time I have one in the shop to do this too I will make a small Instagram video
