That Newbie Guy ... Slicer Questions

In my hobby of making models of British steam engines from my youth I need to make the nameplates that they carried. Before I got a printer I made them with decals but now I want to 3D print them.

I draw them in Fusion 360 and create an STL file which I import to CURA (Ultimaker) or Ideamaker. After they are sliced I get weird (and different) results for the slicers namely parts of the lettering is missing.

Captures from the slicer …



There are two different drawings from Fusion for “Union of South Africa” so they have different results.

This sort of problem only occurs with text from Fusion. Has anyone seen this sort of thing before or know what I might try to fix it?

BTW the drawings look fine in Fusion

looks like maybe your text weight is borderline too thin for your nozzle size. it’s only slicing what it can print. just for yukers try setting the nozzle size to 0.2 and see if it slices properly

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Yes it looks like everything is too fine to me too.

Just imagine trying to do a detailed drawing with a child’s crayon. The “default” nozzle with is 0.4mm while a pencil tip may be 0.1mm. Switch to a smaller nozzle and don’t forget to tell the slicer about it.

While you’re in the slicer, if you are using Cura, under the Shell category, tell it to “Print Thin Walls”.

Great suggestions … thanks. Never changed a nozzle before so that’ll be fun.
I see there’s videos on the process so I’ll watch some first.

I’ve just checked the spares bags and the nozzles are both stamped .4 mm so I’ll get an order in for a smaller one.

I’ve told CURA that I’m using .2 mm nozzle and changed the wall size down to .2 and now the sliced object looks much better … almost perfect but there’s a bit of the upper rim missing. So this definitely seemed to be the problem area.

Here’s my Super Quality settings

LEGO suggested telling CURA to print thin walls (under Shell). Don’t see a Shell category but is this the same thing?

Can’t tell you how pleased I am to see this getting resolved as all my nameplates have been flawed.

Thanks again.


PS … just checked and 3DPC doesn’t have a .2 nozzle for mine. Is there an equivalent for another printer?

These use Ultimaker UM2 nozzles. Some people say E3d-v6 nozzles work but I can’t nail that down for sure that it works because I haven’t tried it. I swapped out my Biqu B1 to a volcano style and that uses a longer nozzle. I have spare volcano nozzles and they are the same as the regular nozzles except longer I can measure and see if the depth of the head is the same

Yes, it’s the same thing.

One thing I like about Cura (vs. IceSL) is that Cura defaults to only showing you the most common settings. That makes it much less overwhelming for new users, but there are still a tonne of features available as you become more advanced. You activate them as needed, which is what you showed in your post. Once activated, they become available in the main GUI. The interesting thing is that in my versions of CURA (v.3.1 and v.4.8), that setting is under SHELL I guess they moved it for v.4.9.

I`m afraid I have to show my ignorance yet again but what is an E3d-v6. Sorry but thanks for replying.

One of these I bet

MWSnap216 2021-06-26, 17_14_43

oh yes sorry about the jargon. those in your list are printers and I’m not sure what they have inside them for parts, I was referring to the parts that compose the actual hot end. They generally follow certain styles and as a result, similar styles have compatible parts. The B1 uses parts compatible with the E3D v6 hot end for the heater block but the nozzle they chose is a different shape And the heartbreak is not threaded into the heat sink… Don’t worry if you are actively printing you will learn what all these things are. Let me run out to the shop and compare these nozzles.

Company name: Extrusion Systems for 3D Printing - shortened to E3d
Hot-end version #6, aka “V6”. Hopefully they’re more creative in their designs than they are in their naming.

The E3D nozzle will fit the thread but it’s physically shorter than the UM2, so it might not protrude past your part cooling fan (the white plastic part that surrounds the nozzle). The volcano nozzle might work if you left it to stick out a bit. See the photo for the parts I’m looking at. The print head in the photo is the same as yours a stock unit for a B1. the long skinny nozzle in the photo is an E3D type for Volcano heat block. the ordinary E3D type is short like the UM2 nozzle, but it small with the same outside dimensions as the end of the volcano one I show. Volcano just means the heater block that these nozzles screw into are oriented differently. The ordinary one is the same as the B1. sort of flat on its side and the path through the block is short for the filament, It’s just the thickness of the block. The Volcano heater block type is almost the same part except on its side so the nozzle screws into a narrow face and the heater block heats the whole length of the longer nozzle because it’s fully screwed into the heater block. The part of the nozzle outside the heater block is much bigger on the UM2 (B1) . If you choose to use a nozzle with a different distance beyond the heater block you will have to adjust your Z end-stop so it doesn’t hit the bed when it homes, unless you can make it exactly the same.

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Thanks Glenn and LEGO for helping me here. Pity it’s not a straight swap. In light of what you’ve spelled out I think I’ll just leave my printer as is until BiQu or someone comes out with a replaceable nozzle without all the extra issues. My printer has run flawlessly since I bought it and I’m reluctant to mess with it especially given how little I understand the issues. I’ll just have to do without the nameplates I designed but at least I now know what the problem is thanks to you guys here.

There are suppliers for ultimaker nozzles. 3DPC might be able to get you some too.

I’ve submitted a request to 3DPC. Thanks Glenn

Just got a reply and there’s nothing available. Maybe someday.

Anyway, I now know what the problem is so that’s a good thing.

Thanks again for all the input guys.

Ultimaker nozzles are easy to find.

I don’t use them myself and I don’t know how good the clones are. The clones of the E3D company nozzles are generally poor they are noticeably rougher and the prints are rougher. I would ASSUME the Ultimaker are similar. (verify these are the correct ones for your printer.)

You will want to print a dust filter before you switch. The 0.2 will be prone to jamming and dust will not be your friend. I use this one white gets dust flecks in it sometimes makes me crazy(er).

WOW … $120?? What could possibly be so special about these? I might consider buying just one if that was possible but not about to blow that kind of money on an experiment. Sorry.

Re: that dust collector. Is there some kind of fabric/foam/whatever that goes into the box to collect the dust? Just checked … yes, foam.

Thanks though for checking into it for me.

eek ok, wait one.

Actually, they won’t work. Ultimaker printers all use 2.85mm filament. I called them to see what was up.

So if it were me (and it is, now) I’d get some of these.

I’d plug the back with a brass plug and bore it for 1.95mm (that’s what the originals are) but I have the tools for that. I’d make the whole thing for the size nozzle I need but I only have one 1/128" drill here and it’ll grab and break in brass, And, I can’t sharpen one that small. (brass needs a different rake angle)

The sweeper part is a good idea and yes it needs a piece of sponge inside like a cleaning sponge from the dollar store and you put a little oil on it like cooking oil and it wipes the filament clean. the filament is filthy heh.

But looking at your test above where you sliced at .2 and still had missing lines in the test parts I’m afraid you’re near the limit of detail FDM printers can provide. Can you make the font a little tiny bit thicker? if not you may have to resort to resin printing for that kind of detail and the nozzles don’t matter because if you can’t slice it you can’t print it.

I wonder if an Ultimaker 3 is a good choice these days. interchangeable heads, Core XY, and already enclosed. Also, 2.85mm filament seems really cheap now I had considered buying some and extruding it out to 1.75mm

These are cheaper, but the quality is questionable and you’ll have to wait 4-8 weeks for delivery.