Seconding Mathew, Even in the best intentions there are too many variables to use somebodies else’s. Does you printer have extruder controls in ‘fine tuning’ or something similar as it is printing? It could be a very ‘quick and dirty’ check to print the cube and once you can see the extrusion change the extrusion amount. +5% maybe. It just makes the extruder run faster it could quickly tell you a number of things.
no clog? is the throat lined? is the liner in good shape?
Thanks for the ideas guys, I agree, too many variables on someone else’s G-code,
I’m working with Aman @ Matter3d, today we did a xyz test cube with his suggested settings,
I’ll keep updating here what we figure out once I try a few more things with Aman
@kitedemon that’s a good idea, it does have print speed (not sure if that’s extrusion or something else) it also has z-axis compensation, tried messing with that a bit, but I didn’t find that helpful for what I am trying to fix, nozzle and bed temp can also be adjusted, but I don’t think that’s an issue.
No clogs, I can print a .36mm thin wall hollow box and looks great, liner is good AFAIK,
its mainly an issue when there is some infill and the start or a new layer, and/or after retraction
I’ll keep ya’ll posted, and if there is any other ideas to fix that poor quality after retraction, I’m up for any ideas
Hey there,
The print speed refers to the overall speed of the print, so if you were to turn it up to 110% it would start printing 1.1x faster for everything.
I believe you would be looking for the extrusion speed. Not sure exactly where this is located as it has been a little bit since I have done it on a marlin machine.
Thanks,
Matthew
Yes @mathew that is what I meant. Extrusion speed. All the printers I own it is in tuning and extrusion usually marked in %.
Ya there is no ‘extrusion speed’ specific easy to access while printing on the ender 5 screen.
just print speed
Still working on things, nothing is giving us clear answers yet…
life is busy, will post back once we get some more tests run… hopefully with some answers
There is it is under the Tune setting during the print and it is called flow. You can increase the speed of extrusion this is a quick way to discover if you actually have under extrusion, if there are nozzle feed nozzle issues or if your hot end is not able to keep up with the demand.
Bump, Bump, thread flag
Thanks @kitedemon but ender 5 plus does not have the flow parameter to be adjustable during the print, unless I used the laptop and pronterface.
unless im missing something
it only has print speed, z-axis compensation, and nozzle/bed temps, fan and ‘economy mode’
no other settings through the ender 5 plus touch screen during print
I just looked at the manual.
Odd.
That’s for the Ender 5, not the Ender 5 plus with touch screen, completely different interface for some reason, thanks for looking it up though, i do appreciate anyone’s effort to try to help out
@Jason So we ran some basic test for checking the nozzle as a possible issue.
E-steps are at 139, ran 3 tests at 100mm each at temps of 205, 220, and 240, all pretty much bang on 100mm, within 1mm (hard to be perfectly accurate with measuring, either way very close
not sure what the next thing to test is?
wow I have never seen a printer with out extrusion control on the menu.
I personally would pull the nozzle and replace it. If the calibration is fine and the prints are still under extruded it sounds like a nozzle. Or the printer cannot keep up with the demands, you could try to cut the print speeds 50% and see if it goes.
I think the under extrusion is a symptom of some other issue,
If you read my earlier posts it will make more sense,
its post retraction, often at the start of a new layer.
Cant print a good retraction tower, or temp tower/bridge (see above for different test results)
I’m not having constant under extrusion issues unless I decrease the flow to get an accurate line width, (explanation of that above in earlier post as well)
slowing it down doesn’t fix the problem, but makes it less noticeable, I’m guessing its some setting with retraction / coasting / linear advance… etc… but with all these options, I prefer not spending weeks going down rabbit holes
Hi there,
Have you ensured that your printers temperature isnt fluctuating too much while printing? You can do a PID tune on your printer to reset the voltages. If the temperature is fluctuating it can cause some underextrusion in your print.
Have you tried turning your retractions off completely, your print will look pretty bad but that should rule out if it is a retraction related issue or not.
Thanks,
Matthew
Hi @JudahCo
That’s very interesting, Not at all what I expected. I would have expected either the low or the high side to be under by at least 10%. If your observations are negligible then I need to rethink that one.
If the hardware is predictable and the symptom is random then that points me to being a hardware issue. The hardware tests (at least for now) ok.
I could eliminate a bad profile in your slicer for now as if the profile went bad it would have under extrusion everywhere.
OK, Let’s confirm the symptom and ensure it’s reproducible. Maybe random is not so random.
Can you simply hit print on the same Gcode file you had with the under-extrusion issue? Same filament if at all possible. Let it run just as it did the previous time. Maybe the “random” under extrusion is not random and is being extruded in the same way/place/location through all the prints. If this is the case the problem is in the slicer.
My thought process is as follows, If the hardware is testing well on a hardware basis (straight gcode commands) then MAYBE the hardware is ok and your slicer is telling it bad things to do. When you compare this print to the last one the under extrusion should be in the same place/location/problem.
If this print is the exact same as the last one in quality then the next step will be to create a new bone stock slicer profile for your printer, Change nothing, Slice the same STL file as printed above and print it. Now compare print number 3 to prints number 1 and 2. Let’s see if there is any difference there.
My theory is to include or disclude the slicer as being the source of the underlying issue. With the above 2 print tests, we will be able to rule out the slicer altogether.
I am along the lines of Jason. If speed did not make a change it points to hardware. The most obvious and likely to my mind is a partial nozzle issue. I would suggest checking the nozzle again.
Sorry for being slow getting back, life is busy
thanks for the suggestions, the gaps are definitely not random, always after retraction… ie often at the start of a new layer, but how bad it is does vary from the design of the print, and the pattern of the printer head.
Anyway, considering going back to more simplicity, because it feels like something simple could be off, and that could make it very difficult to ‘fine tune’ if other basic things aren’t right.
So, loaded up the normal PLA from the small roll that came with the ender 5+ and printed a temp tower, same result as the performance PLA and PETG, no significant change, so then put a new nozzle in and re-ran the exact same test… no significant change,
new nozzle on the left, temps from bottom to top; 205,210,215,220,225
however by watching these prints I recorded (video file it too big) a possible culprit,
in the other pic you can see what looks like the edges are warping up… or squishing/pushing filament off the edge making a raised lip. when it tries to bridge it either goes over the lip and blobs up, or it makes it across then hits the lip on the other side and the bridge piece drops.
not that this will fix my other problem, but maybe this is what’s causing it harder to find the solution
Hi,
Have you tried adjusting the seam placement? It is possible that the seams are what it causing the weird gaps in the print. There should be an option in your slicer to align the seams, try turning this on if it hasn’t been turned on already and see how it affects the print.
Thanks,
Matthew
there is a ‘seam corner preference’ with the options being, hide, expose, hide or expose, and ‘smart hiding’ (on by default)
unless its a bad idea, I think trying to figure out the temp tower issue may be a better start, before moving on to the retraction/underextrusion
Anyone with thoughts on the temp tower?
Or is the temp tower not important and just move on…
