And then gently filling it and letting it expand and then slicing off where it comes through the pinhole. Hopefully hiding it where you won’t see.
I’m wondering if this could be a way to save tons of printing time as well as at 100% infill without really adding much weight or cost.
It could really be a beneficial way to infill flexible filament for sure.
I was also debating if it’s possible to have the printer pause just before it creates the top horizontal surface on each section so that you could use a icing sugar dispenser with plaster of Paris to solid hard fill, so that it doesn’t have to print in the air between gaps as well as adding strength and weight when required.
Or maybe even printing the bottom with little inset ledge so that the rest of the print can just go on like a reverse lid, so that you can fill it with said materials after the print and them crazy glue bottom to the model after.
What do you think of these ideas or do you have any better out of the box beginner ways to add strength without adding higher levels of print Infill.
I have used 0% infil when the amount of bridging is small and maybe 3 to 5% on larger prints (usually 20%) but it is a crap shoot. You can pause you prints to do inserts, that is a function of your slicer. You Tube is your friend here.
I think you missed the point of the topic, it was purposely making no infill and using manual methods mid print or after to "infill’ by alternative means.
Did you mean supports with no infill or printing no infill in the part at all and adding internal support after the fact. If the later then it may depend on the size of the print. You can only bridge over relatively small gaps (maybe.75") before the top sags in. Yes you can pause a print and then add something into the body which might support the top of the print. Again that is a slicer option not the printer itself. If the print is to large to bridge then if you don’t have something inside SAG! If that happens then injecting something after the print is done won’t help and expanding foam will difficult unless you get the amount just right.
Why not use something like lightening support that will use minimum amount of materials.
As Hollow like an egg, like how you can take a pin and poke a hole in the egg on the top and bottom and blow out the whites and yolk so that you can paint them for Easter. Well in this case it would be the reverse. You’re just poking in one hole or pausing it before it solidifies the interior shut so that you can take something else to fill in the interior so that you are not having to wait for the print time creating that interior scaffolding so that it is not going to collapse on itself from being handled when you take it off the print bed.
Take this print for example,
In this case the actual intent was for it to be Hollow as it actually is a vase, but hypothetically say this was meant to be a spiral Nerf football, I could basically fill it with foam and now it would be resistant to being crushed when you grip it.
It’s more like this concept I’m talking about for when you need to print containers that are stronger than just a vase mode shell because removing the infill and infill supports down to 0% reduce the printing time in a lot of cases by 80%.
OK something like an egg (shape and size), as an example, will not print well, if at all, with out some internal support (and lower support on the bottom outside). Just making the walls thicker will not work.
Well in the initial post on the topic I also had that second alternative where I paused the print just before. It’s about to try and print bridging in the air to fill in so that it has something to actually print on
How do you keep it from collapsing without internal support.
If you print a “football” you will still need outside support on the bottom. How would you add support to the inside to support the upper curved surface without printing it? You could print two halves with just support on the bottoms and glue them together and ad the foam afterwards.
In the case of the picture I just showed it printed fine. Only it would smash apart instantly if I tried to throw it. If it was filled with something to make it not air then Bob’s your uncle, yeah it might not be as strong as if it was solid plastic bound together but if it is strong enough to get the job done then by doing this extra little post-processing or mid processing, you’re shaving off a ton of waiting time to cue up your next print.
It was just an idea I had because I’m trying to print off a lot Gridfinity and to print off of vase mode is like 15 minutes and to print off a non-vase mode is like 4 and 1/2 hours. So what I’m wanting to do in theory is set it to have 0% infill and then it will do the inner wall and outer wall details properly instead of a single vase shell that I can then stuff with something manually. Because a rough calculation I came up with needing 800 to 900 bins, so at 4 and 1/2 hours of Pop without even including the time for base plates. I’ll be long in my coffin buried in the ground before it finishes printing.
If you take a pop bottle you can squeeze it with a sneeze. Fill it with something glue on or screw on a lid and now you need to be really strong to make it implode on itself.
I guess maybe the one thing you might be on a different page about is I’m assuming that you can get the details printed. You’re desiring with no supports in a fashion that it’s strong enough to support itself if you don’t try to remove it off the build plate because you would manually stuff it like a turkey before you attempted to remove it off the base plate.
Fellas, I recently printed the Fouga Magister from 3Dplaneprint. The tail section was a bit flimsy, even with carbon fibre rods in the stabilizers. So I opened up the hole in the tail cone (where an LED light will be going), and gently sprayed expanding foam inside. It formed around the inserted rods. It was soft initially, but after a few days hardened up nicely without adding much weight. Its very stiff now.
