3D Printing Canada - Voron 2.4 BOM

I have had a couple of requests for the Voron 2.4 BOM of the kit we sell. Below I have a detailed list displayed.

You will have to build your own wiring harness but all supplies are included.

3D Printed Parts not included (but for sale as an addon with the kit)

VORON2.4 Configurator

Bill of Materials

|Category:|
Part Description: Qty:
Fasteners
M5x40 SHCS |22|
M5x30 BHCS |22|
M5x16 BHCS |35|
M5x10 BHCS |35|
M5 Post-install T-nut |68|
M5 Hexnut |16|
M5 1mm Shim |42|
M4x6 BHCS |7|
M4 Knurled Nut (DIN 466-B) |4|
M3x8 SHCS |187|
M3x6 FHCS |8|
M3x6 BHCS |11|
M3x40 SHCS |30|
M3x30 SHCS |25|
M3x20 SHCS |22|
M3x16 SHCS |20|
M3x12 SHCS |41|
M3x10 FHCS |4|
M3 Washer |3|
M3 Threaded Insert |110|
M3 Post-install T-nut |103|
M3 Hexnut |6|
M3 Hammer Head T-nuts |60|
M2x10 Self-tapping Screw |16|

Motion
Ø5x60mm Shaft, D Cut |4|
Ø5x35mm Shaft (trim to size) |1|
Linear Rail MGN9H 400mm |6|
Linear Rail MGN12H 400mm |1|
GT2 Open Belt Gates LL-2GT-9 (9mm wide) - 1200mm |4|
GT2 Open Belt Gates LL-2GT-6 (6mm wide) - 2000mm |2|
GT2 Belt Loop (6mm W) - 188mm |4|
GT2 80T Pulley (5mm ID 6mm W) |4|
GT2 20T Toothed Idler (5mm ID 9mm W) |4|
GT2 20T Toothed Idler (5mm ID 6mm W) |2|
GT2 20T Pulley (5mm ID 9mm W) |4|
GT2 20T Pulley (5mm ID 6mm W) |3|
GT2 16T Pulley (5mm ID 6mm W) |4|
F695 Bearing |20|
BMG Extruder Components Kit |1|
625 Bearing |12|

Electronics
BTT Octopus V1.1 |1|
Filtered Power Inlet (NA/UK) |1|
Thermal Fuse (125C) |1|
TMC2209 Stepper Motor Driver |7|
Orange PI Zero2 NOT INCLUDED |1|
Omron G3A-210B-DC5 SSR |1|
Omron D2F-01L Micro Switch |3|
NEMA17 Motor generic (equivalent to LDO #17HS19-2004S) |6|
NEMA17 Motor generic (equivalent to LDO #17HS08-1004S) |1|
Mini 12864 Display |1|
Medium Blow Fuse 5x20mm 8A (120v mains) |1|
Medium Blow Fuse 5x20mm 4A (220V mains) |2|
Mean Well RS-25-5 PSU |1|
Mean Well LRS-200-24 PSU |1|
Inductive Probe |1|
Phaetus Dragon High Flow Hotend Kit (24V) |1|
DIN Rail Mount Bracket for G3A SSR |1|
C13 Power Cord |1|
BAT85 Diode |1|
60x60x20 Fan (24V) |3|
40x40x20 Centrifugal Fan (24V) |1|
40x40x10 Axial Fan (24V) |1|

Vibration Management
Rubber Foot (1.5x.75", 38x19mm) |4|

Frame
OpenBuilds Billet Angle Corner Connector (2020) |4|
Misumi HFSB5-2020-530-LCP-RCP |4|
Misumi HFSB5-2020-470-TPW |10|
Misumi HFSB5-2020-450 |2|
Misumi HFSB5-2020-430 |1|
Misumi HFSB5-2020-340 |1|
DIN 3 Rails (35mm W) - 465mm |2|

Misc
Ø6x3mm Neodimium Magnet |8|
Single Sided Foam Tape 3mm Thick (5m) |1|
Single Sided Foam Tape 1mm Thick (5m) |1|
PTFE Tube (4mm OD 3mm ID) - 1000mm |1|
PTFE Tube (4mm OD 2mm ID) - 300mm |1|
4mm Threaded Bowden Coupler |1|

Cables
WAGO 221-415 Lever-Nuts |3|
Ring Crimp Terminal (16-22AWG, #6) |1|
Nylon Cable Ties, Small (.07-.10", 1.8-2.7mm wide) |42|
MicroFit3 Male Pin |40|
MicroFit3 Female Pin |40|
MicroFit3 Connector Receptacle 4 Position |4|
MicroFit3 Connector Receptacle 3 Position |1|
MicroFit3 Connector Receptacle 2 Position |2|
MicroFit3 Connector Plug 4 Position |4|
MicroFit3 Connector Plug 3 Position |1|
MicroFit3 Connector Plug 2 Position |2|
MLX Power Receptacle 3 Position (bed wiring) |1|
MLX Power Plug 3 Position |1|
MLX Male Pin |6|
MLX Female Pin |6|
JST XH Connector, 3 Position Male/Female Pair plus Pins |1|
Fork Spade Crimp Terminal (18-22AWG, #10) |5|
Female Spade Crimp Terminal (18-22AWG, .250", 6.35mm) |7|
Crimp Ferrule Kit (covering sizes 24AWG to 18AWG) |1|
Connector kit matching your controller choice (usually JST-XH) |1|
22-24AWG High-flex Wire (min 19 strand)(250ft/76m total) |1|
20AWG High-flex Wire (10ft/3m total) |1|
18AWG Wire (10ft/3m total) |1|
10x15 Generic Cable Chain (545mm) |1|
10x10 Generic Cable Chain (405mm) |2|

Panels
Coroplast Sheet - 483x503x4 mm |1|
Coroplast Sheet - 469x469x4 mm |2|
Acrylic Sheet Clear - 483x503x3 mm |2|
Acrylic Sheet Clear - 483x483x3 mm |1|
Acrylic Sheet Clear - 241.5x503x3 mm |2|

Build plate
Spring Steel Flexible Print Surface - 14"x14" |1|
MIC6 5/16" Plate - 14"x14" |1|
Silicone AC Heater w/ thermistor - 300x300mm |1|
Adhesive Magnetic Sheet - 14"x14" |1|

1 Like

Hey Jason,

I’m in the process of getting the parts together for a Voron 2.4 r2.

Can I say that the list you’ve posted here needs scrubbing? You’re listing the “BTT Octopus V2.1” and a “Controller with 7+ Stepper outputs” which are the same thing. I’m not sure why you’ve listed a “Raspberry Pi orange P1 mini” when everything I’m seeing is the Raspberry Pi 4. The “Hotend Kit” is something that isn’t as definite as it should be, which is listed as part of the problems below.

We’re still in the Covid parts shortages and you’re going to have problems especially with the electronics Raspberry PIs (of all models) are getting very hard to find. You can still get a few RPi 4s from companies on AliExpress but their prices are going up continuously. I can’t find anybody in North America that has them. The “genuine” Omron inductive sensor is basically not available anywhere - from what I’m seeing, most people building Voron 2.4s are looking at using Klicky as the height sensor.

Despite all this, it’s not the BoM you’ve listed above that’s been the biggest problem for me, it’s getting an accurate list of the parts that are to be printed (and understanding what are the different options for the drag chain mounts, the mains panel, etc.).

I was trying to keep everything organized, but the instructions/configurators don’t provide a concise list of the 3D printed parts and I’ve tried going through the pages to make sure I have everything ready for putting it together when I have the mechanical parts together. So far I’m up to page 241 of the assembly manual in terms of getting the parts together:

I’m excited about building the printer but it’s definitely not for the faint-hearted. As has been noted, the assembly manual looks outstanding but has a lot of holes and is incomplete in a lot of areas (including explaining different options).

Oh, and the suggestion that you’ll need 1.6kg of Black and 0.5kg of your accent colour is maybe half of what you’ll need - you’ll need to do some experimentation to ensure that the prints come out flat as some of them are pretty big and PLA is recommended for all of them. That’s why you see rafts in the prints above.

Once I get everything together and start putting together the printer, I’ll let everybody know how it goes. I’m expecting assembly and set up to take probably about a month (40 hours of actual work).

HI Myke

Thanks for picking up on that, I will scrub it a bit more,

This list is actually the list that is in our Voron Kits, Not a list to build one (although they are very similar) Our supplier is including everything listed on here including the Orange. You are correct its not the full Pi4 but we have it running here in the store and does work quite well. Little different setup from the PI4 but does function.

We had a couple of people ask for our BOM so I downloaded the VORON BOM for the 2.4 and tried to make a list of what is in our kit.

Printing is the biggest commitment. they are available as an add-on when you purchase the Voron Kit. I went a slightly different tact with my voron, I used the CNC machined parts instead of using printed.

You are correct time-wise, It is about a 40-60 Hour build time assuming everything is ready to go on the low end and if you still have to cut extrusion or rails you are on the high end.

Hey Jason,

Question for you - does your kit include the Hot Insert Nuts? I think it’s the “M3 Threaded Insert” (with 110 quantity, which seems about right) but I wasn’t sure.

Interesting about the RPi Orange - I haven’t seen anything about them in my research other than people using other versions had poorer quality prints because they don’t properly process double precision float values as well as the Raspberry Pi 4.

Now, just looking around, I found:

One other thing I forgot to mention in my original reply that it seems that all the cool kids are going with the Afterburner toolhead PCBs as it cuts down on the amount of work making up the wires for the hot end:

A bit pricey, but I’m looking forward to using it with mine. According to AliExpress, the two I ordered are in the country.

Right now I’m waiting for a date for the machined aluminum plate and trying to find a thermal fuse before starting to build. I have basically everything else with two or three items a day away from being received (with still a few 3D printed parts at the bottom to do as well as find a Mean Well 5V AC/DC supply but that’s not a show stopper - I may have a bulk power supply lying around somewhere here that I can use).

I keep seeing/reading how amazing the printer is and I’m looking forward to getting mine together.

Hi Myke

yes our kit it the afterburner setup with the dragon hot end.

The orange is as close as you can get to the 4 without actually being there. I know the image setup is different but it does work. I have a couple of Pi4s at my place so I stuck one in mine.

There are actually a couple of PCB options for the afterburner. Yes most common is the toolhead board which is nice however I went with the next step, I am using the Duet 3 mainboard with CANbus and am setting mine up with CANBUS. The Hovard to be specific, HUVUD Toolboard – Lukes Laboratory

I got 2x of the V.60 version and added the resistor because it has the shaping accelerometer built into it. Only going to be 4 wires going to the tool head and I am going to set it up on the umbilical setup so less moving mass.

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Heya,

Good to know about the RPi Orange - I have three RPi 4s, so I’m good.

I know I commented somewhere on the HUVUD Toolboard and I said I wasn’t wild about the connector placement; I didn’t think it was that well done in terms of keeping the wires simple at the hot end. I also want to understand the timing delay for the STEP pulses to the TMC2209 and nobody could give me a good explanation of what they are.

The concept is great and I like the idea of the hot end temperatures/fans being controlled by a remote processor. I’m just not 100% sold that there won’t be stepper timing delays through the communications hardware/software. This is also true for end stops.

I like the idea of just four wires (two 18 gauge stranded for 24V/Gnd and a couple 28 or 30 gauge for the the signals) but I want to ensure that everything works at the appropriate speeds with no delays from the rest of the system.

absolutely, I agree, that’s why I am taking the genie pig on this one and testing. I do have the Voron Toolhead board as well for a backup but gonna try the CANBUS first.

The kit I have is one that was tested from a supplier we did not end up going with and chose the one we currently have in stock. There were a few issues with it not to mention the price was high but just means I get to build one.

2 Likes

Just an update - for Future Voron Kits - the OrangePi is NO LONGER INCLUDED as part of the kit.