Since the last update post, I added 10mm long brass tubes inside the hot end, to move the ptfe tube up out of the too-hot zone, and went to a 50 Watt heater element to keep up with the cooling the the 5010s have to do to keep the heat from creeping.
@Whos3dprintingWhat kinda funny how that works out, When its good knowledge we will post it here.
Thanks for joining the forum hope to see you more.
If you have any other videos up that we would find useful feel free to post them and we will see if we can peek your numbers for you…
Do you have that marlin build posted anywhere? Thank you!
check out Chris & Ry Doin’ Stuff on YouTube it has lots of 3D Printing< Gaming and DIY Auto/powersports related repair videos on it.
i actually installed the Newest TH3D Firmware @nd version and i LOVE it, it has 5 point manual leveling bed helper, 1 button filament/color change and i still have access to all the e step< accel and other settings all on a 1.1.4 8Bit board. i think like this is im printing what i need and getting the quality i want why bother changing and upgrading the main board for? yes i get its old but im running 1000mm/s accel and 70mm/s print speed on it as normal speeds and the machine LOVES IT
i can send you a pre assembled firmware either marlin 2.x.x or the TH3D firmware which is also marlin based just different features, just let me know i love helping others get where they wanna be with their machines
The Marlin one would be great! Thank you. I’d like to get it running on klipper eventually but finding resources to make sure I have everything right has been difficult and I don’t have as much time to spend on it as I’d like.
I am having so many problems with nozzle jams on this thing. I think I’m going to remove the backflow disks. I’m at 6mm for retractions too, I might drop that down to 4 like you have.
Actually I see the th3d might be better based on your other comment, could you send that one?
i would need to know the exact machine and the version of main board it has, any upgrades like auto levels and such to even start on that and you know how to install the firmware for the machine which im guessing is an a10m? and leave the back flow discs in i took them out and it jams up WAY WORSE. im also fighting the same issue its like a jam i guess but the machine prints its just when it goes from one % of color to another it will under extrude a bit and then the pressure will build back up and it will continue to print great again. i actually DO NOT have the TH3D firmware installed on the A10m but its on my Ender 3 Pro but will be doing the TH3D firmware on my A10m when i figure out that issue or i convert it back to SINGLE COLOR…lol
now that i look on the TH3d site i only see it for the a10 not sure why
I have the A10M with the GT2560 v3.0 board. I have a bl touch mounted but not hooked up yet because I haven’t updated the firmware yet. Besides that it’s pretty much stock.
Yes that’s specifically my problem. It prints fine but when going to switch the color it’s clogged. The longer between color changes the worse it gets.
That video hes linking you too it MY YOUTUBE video. Why didnt you give thanks to the guys video you used? Because that would be my there guys. I made that video showing the inside of the hot end when i first bought my A10m. Lol
Same here alos and im thinking of converting this POS 2into1 mixing hot end back to single color as this machine is killer when single color and without this 2into1 mixing junk hot end on it
My bad for the double post about my video. I keep getting the same notification for the same post so i responded twice before i noticed again SORRY for that. bUT any other stuff you want videos explaining let me know.
Welcome to the forum. Glad you found us in our little corner of the web.
Somewhere on here within the last month, there was a link to a website that will build the firmware for you for a small fee. I will search if I find it I will pin it.
@Jason I think the link you are referring to is the one I posted a while back. Here it is. Firmware Builder - Marlin Firmware Service
Not sure it will help though, it only supported Creality printers and some aftermarket boards for them as well when I last used it. Not sure if more support has been added since then.
see, This is why I love our community,
Thanks @MicroFarmModels you saved me from losing my mind (there is very little of it left)
Yes, that is what I was looking for. I will pull the link and post it up in tips and tricks so I can find it later… LOL