Any tips for glueing parts together.?

CA glue is water activated, it isn’t what is sold for it but it works. People have had problems gluing somethings together like porcelain but if you soak the parts in water few seconds then shake it off before gluing it will almost always work.

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Ummm, things I didn’t know, I call it a successful day when I learn something new.
(just don’t tell my kids I don’t know everything ) :slight_smile:

I agree with the “superglue” or CA working, but sometimes it Is too fast bonding and getting it on the skin sucks.

I found that E6000 works really well and bonds PLA to PLA, PLA to PETG, PETG to PETG, and is quite thick and gives you several minutes of working time, it takes a day to fully cure (smells like the old model glue I used as kid 40 years ago). I think it may be a variant of the goop or gloop mentioned, but I have tried goop and E6000 is better.

Jb weld plastic weld, the black stuff (epoxy) works really well for this as well, it is messy and maybe overkill, but also worked really well for attaching TPU to PLA when everything else above was too weak.

E6000 is sort of a cross between glue and silicon and is suppose to glue up just about any plastic, maintains some flexibility and works great BUT!!! I used it to fix the fender air damn on the front end of my car. It was recommended to me by a body shop guy and it glued the parts up well. It doesn’t take a hit very well.

I originally hit one of those concrete wheel stops parking the car, not particularly hard and cracked the air dam. After I glued it together, it held very well. Then I hit another one, again not very hard. You would think I would learn. It cracked again in the same place and I glued it again. It is still holding after a couple of years. Just don’t hit it hard.

If you read the instructions and I know guys don’t do that, it says that for a full strength bond it can take up to 4 days to cure. Take that into consideration when planning the job. Still great stuff.

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E6000 (they also make goop) is in a family of glue sealants that remain flexible. It is the same principal of why 3D people will say petg is stronger thn PLA and nylon is stronger than Petg. The hard brittle materials fracture under vibrations and sharp impacts.

(@Loosenut that is the perfect use of such a product! It is a tiny glue surface, if you ever need to do it again, try using the side of a plastic container as a backing plate)

3M 5200, sitaflex 292i, goop are all very tough the whole range of polyurethane adhesives are very strong and versatile. They range from hard like PL premium to gummy like shoe goo, and everything in between.

IMO like choosing materials the adhesive needs to match. Gluing two halves of a nylon hammer 5200 or similar it will tolerate impacts. Or epoxy for hook the properties need to match.

I once used 3M 5200 to glue roof racks to a car. When it finally died the wreckers and I bet on how strong the bond was. After 30 mins of being suspended in the air by the rack, they gave conceded. Properly used there are adhesives that are unbelievably strong. Read the instructions! It is very important with adhesives they won’t work well unless you do.

Oh FYI E6000 might no be the best with styrene. (ASA ABS…)