Biqu B1.
Is it possible to have Bed Leveling and Z Offset [on] at startup?
Yes. all those things can be turned on in your start G code. the printer will take the last saved Z offset from the last time you adjusted it but you can make changes that are temporary (just for the print or filament) in the slicer. Which slicer are you using?
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Thanks for responding! I’m using Cura.
if your printer is stock and uses the BLtouch with the stock bracket you can add in the B1 with the right start Gcode as a default and it should work. this is what the window looks like.
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Thank you very much!
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let us know how you make out
I strongly advise against buying this printer. I bought a biqu to test out budget printers to add bulk to our print farm. The printer caught on fire when heating up, and started smoking. The wiring on this printer is very strange, especially the type C connector for the print head. Also, the heating rod is placed at a very awkward angle, I do not see how anyone approved this as being safe.
If you want a budget printer, I recommend the flying bear ghost 5, which you can find here
B1 is ok maybe a bit above average…mines been printing pretty much 24hours a day since February. mostly I’ve only had configuration problems and bad fans everything else had been great. Print head and its parts are pretty common so I don’t seen what you mean about the heater. replacement built plate magnet was not great though
The USB C connecter is allowing me to Interchange print heads now with a harness thats made to be repeatedly reconnected. I’m going to put a BL touch on the other print head and a proper connector that will hold up. and maybe get one of the dual colour kits to also use.
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That would be cool to see your setup. Interchangable heads sounds fancy to me, but im curious to see how you use it. 
oh yea sure!. I’ll take some pics in the morning, One head has a 1.2mm nozzle that’s been making a lot of inconsequential parts for me recently, the other is an ordinary 0.4mm. unplug the USB cable disconnect the Bowden tube from the extruder end. then it’s just 2 screws to get the head off and the new one on. the BL touch makes it a little more tedious though but that’ll be solved when I get another one. I’m going to take my own advice and make some nozzles for it from the volcano ones. I’ll leave the big-bore ones for the volcano-equipped head and use the other head for finer detail parts. I’m still on the fence about another printer but it’s looking more like a Prusa Mk3S+, I really just need longevity on the second machine and I’ll use the B1 for special stuff. I was interested to read about this poster’s Zortrax printer but it’s all proprietary and I’d rather not. I considered an Ultimaker too which is similar to the Zotrax but it’s not far enough ahead of the crowd for the cost
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This is what the head looks like. The screws that hold that go through the vacant holes in the top behind the bowden tube. It’ll be better once I have the second probe then it’ll just be the bowden, the 2 plugs and the 2 screws. I didnt mention that I also probe a new mesh, pid tune and reset the e steps all of which I can do from the LCD menu now with button presses. Its mostly automated and works really well, I don’t have to look up the Marlin M-codes or even know what the numbers are, it just works. Before I had to look them up and made a label so I’d remember them.
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I got a prusa mini a few months ago and it just prints (except for filamentium iceland blue pla… It just eats that)
Id say prusa is defidently a workhorse printer. The control board seems a bit dated (on the i3) considering whats out now, but it works and you dont need to question it much.
FYI there is likley going to be 2 more printers coming out of prusa this year. No dates yet, but the rumour for the prusa xl is october, and thatll likley have a big backlog.
Neat, id be curious how much difference you may see in the different meshes when you start getting more use between the 2. Though theres lots of other variables in that.
What are you going to do for the bl touch connector? Just have a jst plug or dupont connector to make it quick change?