Cr-10 high heat hotend, marlin code update

I am very new to the 3D world and right away I have a big issues, or at least a big issues for me. I have a cr-10 high heat hotend installed on a ender 3 max and I can’t get the software to work so I can update the hotend new Temps. Everything I turn up the temp I get thermo run away and I can’t get even close to the high heat. Would anyone have a new file of high temp hot end and current version of marlin ready to go on a SD card for firmware update.

Please help.


How high are you expecting your hotend to go? Did you install a kit? Like new thermistor, heater cartridge, and all metal hotend?

Yes, it is a creality high temp hot end. Says it runs to 300 c and from what I have read they say to go about 15 degrees above that in the software.

Just looked it up.

Id say give it a shot compiling your own firmware. Its not hard, just a bit tedious.

Luckily you have a popular creality printer, so you should be able to get a copy of the stock configuration files, and make the 4 or 5 changes to make use of the higher temperatures available to you.

That’s the problem, I can’t get platformio ide to work with out giving me some short of erro in vs code.

I was hoping someone out there has done the same and may have a code I code put on SD card for update until I figure the programs out.

Question for the group, as I’ve never done this myself: Can the firmware not be compiled using the Arduino IDE? I’m wondering why so many people seem hung-up on platformio?

For @Verynew25:

What are you printing that needs such high heat? As a SERIOUS suggestion, given that you’re new to this, I’d strongly recommend sticking to regular materials until you’ve become highly familiar with your printer and it’s quirks (they all have them) so that, when you come around to experimenting with new materials or add-ons, you can differentiate between your machine’s quirks and new problems introduced by experimentation. The secret, after familiarisation, is to make one change at a time, be it materials or parts, and test, test and re-test.

You see a lot of new users who jump in, throw in a bunch of mods, and go off trying wild-and-wooly things without knowing, fully, how their printer behaves normally. When things go not-according-to-plan, they can’t tell if the behaviour they’re seeing is; because they were expecting the wrong thing (because they, themselves, are inexperienced); because of an odd quirk their printer was manufactured with (because they didn’t take the time to get familiar with it); or because one (or some combination) of the 6 other variables they changed.

I’m just saying: you’ll save yourself a lot of headaches if you ease into things slowly.

So, that caution having been said, I should point out that I have never modified firmware for my printer, although I do write software for microcontrollers, including the ones the printers are built around, so if my anything I say differs from what others are saying, listen to them instead as they are probably speaking from actual experience.

Try using the arduino ide, available from

It’s not as fancy as PlatformIO, but it’s been my go-to compiler/serial terminal for years.

I BELIEVE (someone please correct me) that there is a .conf file that is editable as a text file and which defines the temperature limits that the thermal runaway triggers at. It would also define the temperature limits that can be set via the control panel.

Again, I’ve never done it myself for a printer, but it shouldn’t be that difficult. Just don’t go crazy changing stuff you may have to debug later. One thing at a time, then test, test and re-test.

Thanks, and no I’m not going to go to crazy At all. Just need high temp for carbon. That is why I got the printer. I don’t want to do anymore mods then I need to, maybe just auto level later and that’s all.

Thanks again.

I will echo lego. You are better off learning the printer before jumping into the deep end. I print a fair bit of carbon nylon it is hard to master. The hot end is only a tiny part of the equation especially with high heat. You will need an enclosure for certain. Carbon Petg is easier and carbon pla is the easiest.

They all eat brass so a different nozzle.

Again I will stress before you start experimenting with some exotics like Apollo X be cartain you understand how to print really will with pla. It is odd adding carbon fiber to a soft material like nylon or petg in many ways it is a natural for pla. It is the hardest of the printable plastics I have ever used.

You will be very frustrated if you just start with material that is pushing 100$ a kg and it constantly fails. There is also less experienced printers of these exotic things so help gets harder.

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@LEGOManiac Arduino is a very valid choice to use to upload the firmware.

Arduino is seen these days as “old school” I use it all the time just cause it’s simple and it works. Everyone online tends to use VScode because it is very WYSIWYG. Generally, new people building firmware like the presentation of it. Both have their valid points but I came from a “building webpages in notepad” generation. It’s kind of a lost art right now.

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When I tried my hand at compiling my firmware, i went towards VS code over arduino ie. My reasoning is beacuse i found the interface for VS code to seem somewhat familiar. That being said both are able to compile marlin. I just have 0 other expierence in coding so i went with what had a user interface that looked familiar.

That being said i think the arduino ide may be limited to certain chips.

I too have heard of people useing note ++ to compare their configuration.h files from known build to their modified builds. I haven’t tried it, though you still need to compile the firmware when the configuation.h configuration_adv.h and platform.ini are set up to your liking.

As the others have said, play around with pla or petg first. Print some tests like for retraction, temp, and tolerance tests to see where your printer is. Then try improving on those. As you get them to acceptable states, then try different materials, as youll have to re-framilliarise yourself with how different filament act. PETG and TPU can be very stringy compared to PLA.

I am curious as to what you intend to use the exotic materials for though. Perhaps there are other alternatives that could also preform just as well.

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I should have thought of this earlier. Geven your newness, have you calibrated your printer by following these instructions, pages in order, left-to-right, starting with the ‘Introduction’ link? Read everything, don’t skip anything, and you’ll have a much better chance of success with minimum pain.