I keep reading about swapping out the default Creality firmware in the Max for that made by another developer.
Although I have no serious complaints about Creality’s FW (hey, I’m a relative newbie to 3D printing so what do I know), I’m interested in what the consequences are of making such a low-level change to the Max: can I reload the default FW if I don’t like the new stuff? What do I lose in features or function by swapping? What do I gain? Can Octoprint and other programs still access the printer with non-Creality FW?
I’d prefer not to brick or reduce the functionality of my printer just because I don’t know what I’m doing. Anyone who has done a Max FW swap / “upgrade” able to help me out? Input gratefully accepted.
unless you have issues with machine, changing firmware can lead you a good experience or waste of weekend fixing or calibrating again. i don’t like to change unless i get significant benefit of that upgrade.
I am a huge believer in “if it isn’t broke don’t fix it”
I have seen a lot of machines bricked or having more issues after the FW change. if you have a specific issue and you know its addressed in the firmware, yes change it, If not I wouldn’t
I agree - fixing things that aren’t broke is how a 1 hour fix-it project turns into a week-long nightmare.
But what got me concerned and potentially interested in a FW “upgrade” are the constant comments I read about thermal runaway in these machines. Depending on the age of the post you read or video you watch, it’s either a ‘common problem’ or ‘its fixed’. How do I know if my E3Pro and Max are protected against such a scenario?
If my machines are protected then I’m less interested in a FW change. Yeah, the E3Pro screen interface is right out of 1995 and awkward to use, and replacing that would be nice, a FW change to do it seems a bit extreme.
Great question, this is actually one of the few reasons that would make me change my FW
there is actually a quick way to test,
Power the machine off,
open the cover to the mainboard
Locate the connection for the heater cartridge on the hot end Usually called “E0”
loosen the screw and take out one lead from the mainboard put it to the side and ensure it will touch NOTHING while we do the next part
Turn the machine back over and power it on
call for heat on the hot end, set it at 150 or something in that range
you should NOT see the heat rise on the console of your printer (if you do you disconnected the wrong heater)
for 30 sec to a min and you should get an error message on your console screen “thermal runaway, printer halted”
If you get the error message you have thermal runaway enabled on your printer.
Power off the printer and turn it back over to reconnect the power wire disconnected earlier
put it back together as it was when you started and you are good to go.