I purchased this printer in late 2019 and have printed many things without issue. I purchased a Sonic Pad about 11 months ago. The prints I am getting now are now delaminating at the walls and the layers are not filled, like the filament is flowing erratically. The first layer is fine and very smooth, but every layer after that is rough. I have sliced with orca and cura. In Cura, I have set the flow to 135% that seemed to help, but still a problem. I have the latest Simply3D, but have not tried that.
What can be wrong? Any suggestions?
I have the same machine and ran into similar problems. The original extruder does give up the ghost over time, I repaired mine twice and have subsequently gone to a Micros swiss extruder.
I have a Bond Tech DDX direct drive extruder.
I guess that is not the problem then. I went full klipper on mine and had to play with the rotation distance (steps/mm-Marlin) to get good prints.
Have you reset everything to original setup and started over?
Maybe a clean slate will help to fix the issue.
There are a lot of factors around issues like these, would you mind providing a little bit more info?
What speeds are you printing at, and what temperatures are you using? Are you printing with PLA or other materials? Have you tried resetting your e-steps, this will be called rotation distance in klipper. Have you made sure that your hotend is staying at a consistent temperature during the print? Could even be something like the nozzle is wearing out and needs a replacement.
I am printing with PLA+ from Sunlu at 75 mm/sec. I have put into the starting GCode script M92 E415; M500;
I had done that when I first installed the DDX, but had forgotten to do that after installing Klipper from the Sonic Pad. The interior of my prints are looking fairly good, but the exterior and interior walls are not solid.
I have a hardened steel nozzle from Micro Swiss and have only printed PLA, PETG and TPE with this nozzle, so I don’t think that is a problem.
I am using SoftFever Orca slicer and am trying to calibrate the filament at this time. My printing speed now is 75mm/sec.
Since I am using Sonic Pad, I monitor the print on my iPad and computer and the temp is constant.
My problem now is to get the exterior and interior walls to not have gaps between the lines.
Yes this does look a little bit like an estep issue to me, I generally do not recommend using Gcode to set your esteps. This should instead be set using the firmware, on your computer head over to the configuration tab on the fluidd web interface where all of your configuration files are located. You will find one labelled ‘printer.cfg’, click on this one and your main config file will be opened. I always recommend downloading this file onto your pc that way you have a backup just in case something goes wrong, you can also copy and paste all of the contents into a text file.
Once you are in the printer.cfg file you will want to scroll down to the extruder portion and look for a setting labeled ‘rotation_distance’, this setting is handled differently in klipper than it is in marlin, but it has a higher degree of accuracy inside of klipper. I will link a great video below which demonstrates how to properly calculate this value, once this value has been calculated you can change it in your configuration and then save it. Don’t forget to remove the start gcode from your slicer which changes the flowrate.
I haven’t watched the video yet, but can Prusa Slicer be used to reflash the firmware?
I believe prusa slicer can be used to flash prusa firmware, not entirely sure though, I have never used it before.
The sonic pad should have a flashback capability if you are looking to go back to firmware.
Doesn’t M92 E415; M500; store the E step value the same as putting it in the printer.cfg?
Klipper doesn’t actually use standard estep values, it instead uses rotation_distance which is much more accurate. I am surprised that this gcode is actually functional at all, unless it is not actually doing anything…
Additionally applying a gcode offset to the estep value will not produce nearly as precise or repeatable results as having a properly calibrated firmware value. Adjusting this value inside of klipper is relatively easy and will be much better overall, I would definitely recommend this over using a gcode offset.