Cr10 SMart Pro Extruder issue

It looks really good. Did you do a bed mesh? I’d be curious to see that.

There was just a discussion on the Klipper Discourse forum regarding Ender accuracy with the idea that when you get to the X-Axis extremes, you lose quality - that looks like what I’d expect.

Regardless, it looks quite good.

Yes, after the manual 5 point was where I wanted it, I triggered the ABL 25 point check that it does. For the gcode in question, which I’d run through PrusaSlicer, I took out the G29/M500 step and ran the M420 S1/ M501 combo… perhaps a bit brute force-ish, but had to start someplace.

Most of the squares are solidly joined into a thin film. One snapped along a diagonal run, two of them had some ‘fan’ effect. I’ll look at dialing in tighter later. I may upgrade the springs on this thing. I have a feeling the stock ones aren’t performing as they should.

The three calibration objects I’m running are chugging along nicely in high quality mode and have another hour or two… so with luck, by bed time, I’m good to go.

@msav There is a lot of great information in this post/thread but I can’t agree with why anyone would leave the screws in that hold the heating block to the cooling block for printing. The amount of heat that these two screws transfer to the cooling block is not negligible. The only time these two screws go in is when I need to remove or change my nozzle, to hold the heater block in place. Once the nozzle is seated/tightened, off they come. That heat transfer will soften and even melt your filament before it even reaches the hot end causing all kinds of issues with extrusion. Printing almost exclusively with PETG and ABS for five years this way and have never had an issue, of any kind. Some solutions are often the simplest.

That actually makes a lot of sense. tighten them up, then tighten the set screw then remove them.

I actually noticed on similarly designed hotends that those screws don’t even exist. Just thought they were there for redundancy on this one. Strange after reading countless posts and watching dozens of videos nobody has mentioned this.

Life keeps getting in the way. calibration objects came in pretty close dimensionally. I’ll have to tinker a bit to get 'em really dialed in. So, threw this massive job at them - 3 days of printing solid.

One Fallout Ranger helmut for fun. Just been too busy to get to the rest of the objects. I did some custom supports. Definitely interested in tree supports - default from Creality Slicer 4.8.2 is to do 100% supports and that’s just ridiculous not to mention nearly a week of printing.

I stopped using Creality slicer. Mainly because I have switched to .6 nozzle and Creality slicer does not have the arachne. Using cura 5.2.

It would greatly have cut down the time it took to print your project.

I printed a huge dice tower that took about a week of continuous printing. (5 - 1kg rolls of filament) It turned out better than I had hoped. The Glass bed has been a huge help with bed adhesion and level. I definitely had a warped PEI bed sheet. prints are a bit harder to get off, but it just requires a little tap to get the scraper under the print and then run it around the outside and it comes off.

I also learned about splicing filament. Got a filament spliced and spiced together my partial rolls so I did not have to worry about running out of a spool in the middle of a print.

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Yah, that’s why I was shifting to PrusaSlicer - I was getting a bit fed up with Creality’s take on Cura. I’ve just started reading about Cura 5.2.x so who knows. :slight_smile:

Splicing filament sounds like fun… kind of like splicing Fiber Optic cable but a bit easier I imagine - and for the record, I’ve made some attempts, but they were clearly not good enough to run through the printer…

As for the 5 1kg rolls - oi. How freaking big is that dice tower, and what was your infil? :slight_smile:

I keep meaning to try prusa. I just have all my profiles setup. and that whole Idea maker issue I had makes me hesitant to try another slicer. when I get some time I will watch a few videos on it and see if I want to try it. It also supports Arachne. so it is doable with my .6 nozzle

Dice tower is 2.5 feet high X 1.5 foot wide. it was printed at 20% infill. I wanted it sturdy so if I dropped it it would not shatter. I also wanted it to have some heft so it would not get knocked over. No supports either. it is in sections and held together with magnets for portability.

It is this one printed at 200%

Thanks you for the suggestion.

I removed the 2 screws this morning.
I made sure the heat break was tightened into the heat block as tight as I could ( it was loose) It did not leave many threads for the nozzle though. Then put the 2 screws in and tightened them up so I could tighten the set screw. Then removed them
I expected to have to reset the z-offset, but it was spot on. so I guess the connections between each of the parts when tightened properly are the same exact length.

I am printing a 14 hour print, SO we will see how it goes.

Good Luck! I’ve been running a few prints to make paint pot holders for a friend. That took a few days. The Fallout ranger helmet test prints are mostly good. Might have to scale 'em a bit for a real fit. Can see the point of those 3d pens now… spot fixes…

I have noticed that the entire right 2.5 inches or so of the bed won’t adhere filament again, so something’s not holding true. Not sure I’ll get to the bottom of it for a few weeks, have some other pressing matters to deal with first. sigh.

I just finished a 44 hour print :dizzy_face: . Turned out pretty good!

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