Creality Ender 3 v2 - Dual Z axis Screws

Looking at correcting an issue I started to have with my Ender 3v2 were the bed was not level in the middle.
Could be a warp in the bed?? I have a glass bed so not likely and ruler test confirms it is pretty straight.

Could it be my bed leveling mastery? (lol) I have done countless bed levels and thought it still might be that but then I measured the left and right Z axis and found it is a few mm to low on the none screw (right) side leading to believe that the X axis was slightly sloped.

Took apart the Z extrusions and reseated them square and tighten all screws and v-rollers. Nope not it!
Took apart the X axis and reseated them square and tighten all screws and v-rollers. Nope not it!

Would installing a Dual Lead Screw upgrade kit help? Yes, more then likely is the answer but is there another way?

The part is sold by 3D Printing Canada : (

The 2 questions I have about this part are:

  1. Does that part fit the 3v2?
  2. Is this really needed or is there a better way to correct it?

Let me know if any of you folks corrected your slope or have worked with a 3v2 Z axis upgrade and how that worked out.

Thanks in advance!

Glass can, indeed be warped. Don’t believe me? Come look out our kitchen window. :slight_smile:

Make sure your wheels on the both sides are sufficiently tight. They wear with age and as they loosen, one side will start to droop.

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lol true enough I guess it can warp.

Printer is a month old I guess now… Printing probably 12 hours a day. Took apart and Tightened almost everything and have same issue.

Thanks for the reply LEGOManiac.

To be fair, it’s not that the glass will warp over time, it’s that it likely was never perfectly flat to begin with.

I have read on other forums something which makes sense to me but which I haven’t been able to verify: Mirror glass is apparently made to a higher standard of flatness because any undulations in it will be super obvious. In contrast, you only really notice our triple-pane kitchen window is not flat when you look through it at night and the various layers reflect between themselves. Just looking at the trees outside, you wouldn’t notice.

As a former glass worker I can verify this, front surface mirror especially. The glass is made flatter.

My artillery bed came badly cupped. It is defiantly possible not to be flat. It seems to be one of the struggles getting a bed that is true.

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Oaky that’s great we’ll see you there.

Heat up your printer to operating temp, let it sit for 10-15 mins then bed level, that should get you where you need to be.

Also always check flatness when up to temp

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The glass bed that came with my Ender 3 was warped in the center, I replaced it and the problem went away.
It took me forever to figure out that it was the bed itself, the only way I wound up figuring it out was by strapping a dial idicator to the hotend and moved everything around to measure the distance to/from the bed. After that I hooked up Octoprint and a BL touch and used the ‘bed visualizer’ plug-in to verify it was infact warped in the center like the dial indicator said.

The bed on my newer CR10V3 is now giving me similar issues out of the blue…

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Okay it’s not the bed… straight with a metal square edge.

I may have figured it out though… sort of. I still have the slight drop on the right side away from the lead screw. But what was warping my prints was the last quarter roll of PETG. Bought another roll and problem went away. Put back the quarter roller to test theory and “BAM” badly warped print.

Second lead screw and timing belt waits for another upgrade frenzy!