Ender 3 Thermistor

Looking like I will have to change my Thermistor part as I am having Runway issues today, although I did a print over 10 hours yesterday? Is it worth upgrading to a new Hotend upgrade like this one?

I have upgraded my CR10S Pro with an all metal Mico Swiss hot end.
It is a lot better than the OEM that came with the machine.

Not ender 3 ?

It doesn’t look a lot different than the stock hot end. You can upgrade the heat break to a bi-metallic one from Slice engineering, they have good ones and have something similar to the one you mentioned. You can upgrade your thermistor to a EPCOS type (Gulf Coast Robotics) and it will give you much better temp. control over the stock type.

I think only you can answer that question. From the reviews that I have read about the spider hotend, it is designed for higher temp printing AND for faster printing.

If you don’t require significantly higher plastic flow for way faster printing, than it seems way too expensive compared to some other all metal upgrades that are 1/4 the price and will get you high temp printing.

The spider will apparently get you about twice the maximum flow rate compared to stock Ender 3, (allowing speeds up to 250mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle) but it is likely that other factors keep you from going that fast so you might not be able to take advantage of the hot end anyways - your printing needs will dictate.

Also, on the link you sent, the video show that the hotend installs with the thermistor and heater exiting from the left of the heater block, usually stock Ender 3 have them exiting from the right, so installation might be a challenge- something to investigate before buying.

Hope this helps.

I tried printing at 200mm/sec on my stock Ender 3V2 at 210 Deg and it was OK but there were a couple of minor issues. Simple print though.

Question will a Ender 3 power supply put out enough juice to get the spider hot enough?

I am certain the the ender3 pro can keep up the temp for the spider.

The Ender 3 original doesn’t typically have the meanwell power supply like the pro and which is considered superior, but I believe it would keep up too. The spider only goes to 300c, and once the thermal mass of the heat block block and nozzle are up there, it isn’t too much demand on the power supply to keep the temp up, especially if you keep the silicone sock on.

I recently did a print on an Ender 3 at 255c 1mm nozzle, 0.64 layer height (petg) and it could keep up the temp of the nozzle no problem, but ran into underextrusion at higher than about 65mm/s.

Another print, same machine, 250c petg, no silicone sock, much slower, it could keep up the temp no problem even without the sock.

So if a person is printing at speeds that cause underextrusion or that horrible clunking sound when the extruder finally gives way and a bunch of filament skips backwards, then the spider is a great option for upgrade.

Assuming you don’t have 3000+ hrs of run time its unusual for the thermistor to start failing so soon…

The few times I had thermal runaway issues it was more due to the thermistor not being seated properly or slipping out . Or sock needing to be replaced. Or the hot end needing a serious cleaning…

Before you start replacing cartridges & thermistors or swapping to a new hot end, disassemble your hot end and give it a cleaning. Last time i had a heat break which was a bit loose and leaked. Cleaner her up, reassemble and see if that fixes it.

I personally like the Micro swiss all metal direct drive hot end.