Hi,
I just wanted to post about a duh moment I had with the hopes that whoever reads this can avoid the same problem. I apologize if this has already been covered but doing a quick search showed no results.
My issue was I wanted to do a few minor updates on my Ender 3 V2. It was printing fine but thought it was time to improve things. I changed the Bowden tube to Capricorn Bowden Tube. I upgraded to a metal extruder, added a metal nozzle and changed the Bowden Tube clamps. I already had the BL Touch installed.
When completed I went to print something with PETG and the print was horrible. The first layer was extremely stringy and there were blobs of filament on the print. I cancelled the print and readjusted the settings, trying again with the same horrible results. I should have probably done a temperature and retraction tower but didn’t. It seemed like the filament wasn’t feeding properly.
So, after a ton of research I could only come to the conclusion that my filament was damp and needed to be dried. So I purchased a filament dryer.
In the meantime I tried printing with PLA and still had bad results with the first layer. It seemed like the filament wasn’t being fed and was slipping on the extruder drive gear. So thinking I clogged my nozzle, I changed the nozzle. Still I had the same problem.
Very long story short, I ended up switching back to all my original parts, except the Bowden tube and yet still had the same problem. At this point I’m about 6 hours into troubleshooting and replacing components.
After another round of research I finally came across the solution to my problem. My bed was too close to my nozzle. There was no way the printer could extrude filament because the bed was acting like a cap on the nozzle. I assumed, with the BL Touch, it would always adjust for minor changes but something I did changed the results. I went back and manually levelled my bed, then readjusted my Z-offset (which had changed significantly) and ran a BL Touch scan of the bed.
Everything printed perfect after that.
Such a simple solution for such a complex problem. I wanted to share hoping others struggling with the same issue won’t waste as much time as I did.
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There are many who thing a touch is a magic bullet. It isn’t the bed needs to be basically correct and the touch will assist with minor variations.
I hope I’m not being argumentative, but I’m wondering why you didn’t check/update your Z-Axis offset after changing the extruder and nozzle? That’s a lot of metal that was changed and, while on paper, I’m sure it looked like it would be the same length I would have thought it would be obvious to do a quick paper test to make sure everything is good.
Just as a matter of habit, I check my Z-Axis offset after any changes to the hot end hardware. Even if I’m replacing parts that should be identical.
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Have you updated your firmware to the Jyers UI version. It adds a lot of new options for an Ender 3V2 including the ability to manual level the bed using a BL/CR Touch to an “extremely” level condition. Once you have the bed levelled adjust the Z Offset and the BL/CR Touch will work without problem. It is a good idea to put the G 29 (after the G 28 command) command into the start G code so it runs the bed level check before it prints.
I have also done the "Luke Hatfield’ trick, putting a short piece of the capricorn tube in the hotend and that has stopped all problems with jamming and extruding.
mykepredko, no argument with you. You are 100% correct, I should have checked the Z-offset after I made the changes. Although I’m not new at this, I’m still learning and will chock this one up to a valuable lesson.
Loosenut, I do have Jyers UI version loaded and have the G29 command in my G Code. Question, do you need to do the Luke Hatfield trick if you are already using Capricorn tubing?
Thanks for the comments, well received and appreciated.
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YES!!!
The whole point of his “trick” is to jam a short piece of Capricorn tube between the nozzle and the tube coupler so that it can’t move up and down by the action of the filament moving the boden tube resulting in a gap that can cause a jam or a flood. The tube, which is fixed in place, must be cut square and the length is important but once it is set in place it should eliminate most feed problems in the hotend. It is also important to use Capricorn tube since it can take a somewhat higher heat then regular tubing without deforming. Deformed tube ends are a source of feed problems. Ask me how I know!
CHEP explains it better.
P.S. once you have done the “trick” it isn’t necessary to use Caproicorn tube all the way to the extruder, the cheaper stuff is good enough for that.
