Ender 3 v2 Micro Swiss Upgrade - Dual Z Needed?

I’m already planning on how to spend my tax return this year and thought I would upgrade my Ender 3 v2 to a Micro Swiss direct drive and all metal hot end. I’ve seen some people online say a dual Z upgrade is strongly encouraged due to the extra weight. I’m wondering how necessary that is, or can I just buy a lighter pancake stepper motor instead?

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I have the same setup, I have a slimline stepper.

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however im considering dual z anyway.

I would consider the dual z axis and a bl/cr touch first (if you don’t have one now) unless you absolutely need the hotend upgrade right away. The extra weight can be a problem with the gantry. These upgrades really help with printing.

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Thanks for the advice. Already have a bltouch, upgraded bed springs, and a pei buildplate. I figured if I was going to be going to direct drive I’d do the dual z at the same time. After that I think I’ll be pretty set, can’t see much more I could do.

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Don’t forget at some point to get a new extruder, The plastic ones that come with it fail at some point. I have the silver one from Creality and it works well. The cheap red double friction wheel ones grind themselves to pieces.

If you haven’t upgrade your firmware to the Jyers UI version it is a very good upgrade, greatly improves the functionality of the 3V2, and easy to do. Free!!! See below.

P.S. don’t forget the Capricorn tubing if you don’t already have it.

PP.S. And the most important upgrade is the Luke Hatfield “trick” for the hot end. This solves a lot of problems, if you haven’t done it already.

PPP.S.There are a lot of other upgrade that can be printed out that help improve things like filament guides and rollers, roller spool support. Look at thingaverse under Ender 3. That is what is so great about the Ender3 series printers you can just keep improving them until some Day you won’t recognize it anymore. And you said there wasn’t anything more to do. HAHAHAHA!!!

It’s a disease man I can’t quit making upgrades, somebody stop me. Please. :sob: :sob: :sob:

Oh yeah, I’ve done most of these (Jyers, Capricorn, metal extruder). I did the Jyers firmware after installing the BLTouch, since I figured I had to flash the firmware anyways. I had a printed filament guide, but changed it for a side feeding Sunlu filament dryer since I put the Creality filament runout sensor on. Also printed the mount for my Raspberry Pi Octoprint camera.

I was looking at the Luke Hatfield thing a while back but never did it. I guess if I go direct drive with an all metal hotend this wouldn’t be an issue. I seem to have the upgrade bug as well, I guess the only major thing left would be linear rails, but I don’t see that being a huge improvement.

Well you have the “disease” too, there is no hope for you now.

Yes if you go with a direct drive extruder, or even put an all metal/bi metal heat break in, you wont need the “Luke Hatfield” trick. It is only necessary where the boden tube goes all the way down to seat on the heat break where it might move up and down and leave a gap or burn away causing a jam or flood. I have seen Youtube vids on linear rails and the jury seems to be out as to whether they really make a big improvement over the wheels and belt system.

Of course there is an Ender extender kit, touch screens, low noise fans, enclouser will it ever end… :fearful: