So I’m a total noob. Got an Ender 6, have built it. When I turned it on I had done some leveling paper checks and everything seemed good. When doing the first temperature test, I am not getting an error (attached).
Additionally, when trying to level everything. I click on leveling and it switched to “auto home, wait for minutes” and never seems to get anywhere.
Please halp.
I was going to start diagnosing this but it occurs to me: how new is this machine? Did you literally just get it and put it together?
If so, check on the back of the power supply. There is a switch there that moves between 110V and 220V.
They ship set for 220V by default
I’m guessing it’s still there. It causes all kinds of weirdities, but don’t worry, it could have been worse: If you live in a 220V part of the world and it’s set to 110V, it blows up the power supply. At least this way around, it just acts weird but does no damage.
Check the voltage setting first and write back if there’s still a problem.
Oh, and welcome to the forum!
Thanks for the suggestion but that was definitely switch to 110v.
And yes, it is brand new and just setup.
So then, when you start a print, does the nozzle start to heat up noticeably? Does the bed?
I haven’t gotten to that stage. I am working through the instructions. I’m at the leveling and testing stage. I notice the bed heat up when I set the temp automatically but not the nozzle and then I get that error.
It is sitting in a room that usually runs around 23-24 C so I don’t think the ambient temperature is the issue.
I just want to confirm: when you say you “notice” the bed heating up - are you actually feeling it, or just looking at the display?
I’m trying to establish whether power is actually going to the bed heater and hot end heater. If the bed/hot end are not getting warm, then you (likely) have a heater problem. If there is heat but it’s not reflected in the display, then you have a thermistor problem. The controller is a bit on the dumb side. It can call for heat but it doesn’t actually measure that current is flowing through the heating element. It simply reads the thermistor values and complains if the value being read isn’t what it expects. However, that does not distinguish between the two possibilities: that the bed was never actually getting heated in the first place, or that the sensor is sending back an incorrect value.
Here’s a thought: have you verified that you haven’t swapped the thermistor cables? That is to say, if you accidentally plugged the bed’s thermistor into the hot-end’s thermistor socket (on the motherboard or the wrong extension cable), then the bed will start to heat, but the controller would be accidentally reading the hot-end thermistor. That’s an easy enough mistake to make as on many models they are fundamentally the same thermistor using the same type of plug.
I should point out, if you weren’t already aware of it, that bed generally heats first and the nozzle only gets heat when the bed is up to temperature.
First off, this is fantastic information and I appreciate your expertise.
My “noticing” is related to the display only. I only see the bed rising by 2-3 degrees before the error shuts it down, which I don’t know if my fingertips would be sensitive enough to notice, but I will give it a shot.
I followed the destructions that came with the machine and they are pretty clearly labelled. They also, only plug in one way based on the “channel” on the plug. That said, the “heat” cable was quite tight to reach from the printing head housing to the motherboard. I made some adjustments to create a little more slack, but without dismantling the hot end housing (the cooling fan) I cannot see how it is seeded.
I will try to feel my way through the heat up process and report back. Thanks again. 
I should have thought of this sooner: when the printer is left powered-off for, let’s say 30 minutes to an hour, when you turn it on, but don’t run it, what temperature(s) does the display show?
When it’s been left sitting for a long time, the bed and nozzle should both have returned to ambient room temperature. Are the temperatures: A) the same? and B) roughly the current room temperature?
They are showing as roughly the ambient temperature of the room (23C - 24C).
If you place your hand on the center of the build plate, does the temperature of the bed go up?
Do the same test by holding the nozzle in your fingers for a minute or two.
I’m just trying to verify that the nozzle thermistor is connected to the nozzle input (and hence, shows up as such on the display) and that the bed thermistor is connected to the bed input.
post pics of that the screen looks like when u power on as well as a pic of the break out board that everything plugs into
@ScryptoNoob You should contact tech support as well. If there is a defective part they will or should replace it. It is a slow process. I would keep exploring where the issue is but avoid voiding the warranty. In my case I ended up spending 500$ in replacement parts and shipping on a 600$ printer.
So went and took some pics. Quadruple checked the wiring and did some test heats. The bed works. The nozzle doesn’t. If I manually set the bed it heats right up with no errors. When I manually set the nozzle temp it doesn’t heat at all, it doesn’t read the temp changes and then errors out with the heating failed msg.
Pics of the break out !
Do you have a volt meter?
The fact that the hot-end temperature is showing room temperature means that the thermistor is working. That leaves either problems with power going to the heater or the heater itself.
Pull the Heat1 connector out. Stick a couple of pins in the end and connect it to a volt meter. Be sure the pins don’t short out our you could damage the controller board or the power supply.
With the meter set to voltage, turn the hot-end heat on. You’ll only have a couple of seconds before it aborts but it should be enough for you to confirm that the cable is delivering 24V.
Also, I don’t know the pin assingments on the black connector (bottom of board), but it looks to me that the connector isn’t in completely on the left. If the power to the heater goes down the left side (and the left-most wire is thick enough for it), then it’s possible that that’s where the break in the power delivery is.
I would agree with Lego, the Thermistor looks good, you are getting the error because the machine is calling for heat but its not seeing the heat raise in an appropriate amount of time. So for safety sake in case there is an electrical issue somewhere its shutting down and throwing an error.
I know its frustrating but its actually doing what its suppose to, its telling you there is a problem. If the machine was bought from us we will absolutely cover under warranty any defective part with the machine. I will stay in the thread anything you need please let me know.
Damn, good eye. I will see if I can get it seated further.
As for volt meter that will be an absolutely last resort. A) I don’t have one and B) I know enough about how to use one to be dangerous lol
I will try to adjust based on the image you sent.
Thanks Jason, I appreciate that. I did purchase it from you.
Hi @ScryptoNoob
No Problem, when you figure out the issue let me know. If you are local and you are out of ideas drop it in an we can have a look at it together.
Jason
This did the trick. I have heat. Now to check and see if this also fixed my Z-axis issue. The plate doesn’t go up and down, like the motor isn’t working. My assumption is it will be taken care of also.
Thanks Lego, ya maniac! I really appreciate you taking the time to help this noob out. <3
