Euro PLA vs Value PLA

BlockquoteI kinda put the Value PLA and the EUROPA in the same group

So Euro filament is advertised as coming from Europe. Where is the Value PLA from? Is it less quality than the Euro, but from Euro as the spools look the same?

Since I don’t see stock of the Euro on the 3DPC site, I have tried the eSUN filaments in PLA+ and PLA Silk. I am really starting to like that line and I saw a project done in eSUN silk silver and want to try that filament. At the moment, eSUN is my largest inventory of filaments because it prints well, nice finish, good bed adhesion, great selection of colors, along with good pricing.

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In my hands, the sakata filaments tend to have some stringing that I can’t tune out. I’ve tried Ingeo 850 from a few manufacturers and this base seems to be stringier than 4043D. I do like their variety and finish though.

That’s interesting, thanks for the input. I’ll have to source out a filament that uses the 4043d resin to try out. Looks like there’s a few brands that use it.

I can’t say I’ve had any stringing issues so far with the Sakata PLA (there is definitely some with their petg) but I have had one roll get pretty brittle that I left out for a few months.

@Aldabest I have some of the sakata it seems fine on my printers for stringing. I have found that if the nozzle is worn it strings like crazy could it be wear rather than filament or settings?

Eurekatec is 4043D. I like the filament I find it prints well but in all honesty the staff are so good and they are local to me I like promoting them.

I’ll have to look them up I have not heard of them before. thanks Jason!

I think you are confusing them too M3D make that little cube printer from kickstarter a while back. They are the ones that sell filament by length too. In Maryland. Not that it matters.

M3D i this case is Matter 3D. Actual name is Matter 3D but they use “M3D” as a logo which yes, does make it confusing with the company from Maryland that you were talking about.

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Thanks @Blair it did confuse me. I have not used Matter3d materials. I’ll need to look at it.

Hey Guys, sorry came into 300 orders to pick and send out… Long day

I generally stick with 1 brand as well, My wife is the one that will experiment. My opinion is if it ain’t broke don’t; fix it.

I have used Sakata a little, I know some customers use it exclusively and love it. Every time I print with it I get stringing and cannot figure out how to stop it until I change the nozzle. Post-processing generally drives me a little crazy so I try to stay away from it. The customers that use it never have the issue. Cannot figure out what I am missing on that one but somewhere in this thread someone mentioned the 850 composition material and that may be an interesting point for me to dig into later.

The M3D from BC is the newest one we carry and I do have to say I am really impressed by it. The first couple of tester rolls were good, the First shipment had some issues and then they really stood up. and have had zero issues since. I think 2 customers had problems with spooling but to my understanding, they replaced the rolls straight up. That says a lot to me. I finished printing a tippy tree with it and have to say the finish is just impressive.

The Euro line is from Europe, I cannot remember the country right now. As for the Value Its a rebrand of another company but it does print very similar. I find it about 5 deg warmer and you are off to the races. The finish on the Euro and the value are very similar as well.

The Matter 3D filament is one made in BC and made in Canada.

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Thanks for the exhaustive reply Jason. Regarding the stringing from Sakata, I wonder if purging the nozzle with some purging filament would work as well as changing the nozzle. I’ve only had a few rolls of the ingeo 850 filament so I haven’t used enough to have thought to do either.

Yeah that’s possible. The stringing comes and goes, and I couldn’t really pinpoint what was causing it. Maybe I’ll try purging or put it on when I have a new nozzle.

I know we were using the Sakata here in store when we were doing the face shields, Its printed great 95% of the time, when the stringing started we just changed the nozzle and the problem went away. I know how that sounds but I never was 100 convinced the nozzle was the issue. When you change the nozzle you retighten and retorque everything which I think was more than likely the solution. I just could never figure why it was more sensitive to it.

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@Jason I decided to test my theory on whether using a purging filament could get rid of stringing. I had some purple Sakata 3D850 that I use (begrudgingly) but really hated removing the wisps from my prints. I used some purge filament on my nozzle, and printed my usual prints.

Almost all stringing had been eliminated. Before, I had to use a lighter to burn off the worst of it, then aggressively rub on it until it disappeared. I didn’t bother doing either because there was so little stringing. One more mystery solved!

And just as a note for posterity, I tested the silver Euro PLA and Value PLA against each other, and my conclusion is that the Euro PLA is much softer and the interlayer adhesion is not as good as the value PLA. For what I’m making, I think I need to stick with the value PLA because it works better with my application.

Well that’s interesting. Are you then thinking that the stringing was related to needing to more thoroughly purge out the previously used filament?
If that’s the case, what were you usually printing with before the Sakata?
And just out of curiosity, what kind of nozzle are you using? I wonder if that plays a role at all.

That sounds like a temperature issue rather than a filament problem. Did you run a temp tower? I found the 3dpc starting points generally to be good but not always the ASA is way under.

I have found nozzle wear to be a big factor in stringing across the board. Generally if it was printing well than it goes sour it is in my experience a nozzle issue.

I run mostly PLA through, but it’s different brands including value, euro, eurekatec, hello3D, D3D. I have a brass nozzle 0.4mm.

I’ll keep testing to see if purging consistently helps with this issue.

I don’t recall if I did a temp tower on this, that’s a good idea. It seemed fine at 210, but maybe I can up it a bit more without causing too many artifacts.

I’ll have to put some other filament through and then use the sakata 850 again without purging to see if I can reproduce the problem. But results so far are promising.

@Aldabest I find the use of the term purging odd. Do you mean the purge line or a purge tower? Neither should be effecting stringing so I am a bit confused by what you mean.

Typically retraction, temps, and nozzle condition effect stringing purging filament should not in theory. Am I missing something?

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