210 is about where I print Sakata PLA.
I just loaded up a roll of granite colored though and it seems like it could use a bit higher temperature.
I switch between Sakata PLA, Sakata petg, value PLA, TPU, TPE and haven’t noticed any problems. All I ever do when changing is slowly push the new filament in manually until I don’t see any of the old stuff mixing with it.
Thanks for taking the time to do some testing. This is a curious issue.
Sorry I should have been more clear. I’m using a purging filament like DynaPurge (not the exact brand I’m using). It’s supposed to clear out any residue inside your hot end so you can start with a clean slate.
I think it’s hard to really pinpoint what is causing a problem for me, each person’s setup is quite different so there are a lot of variables. It was Jason’s comment about changing nozzles that got me thinking about it.
Interesting. I never noticed much difference in the two when it came to the extrusion quality, stringing, interlayer adhesion or stiffness (flexural modulus). I have done flexural testing on a couple different brands of PLA and came out with relatively similar results, so assumed all PLA fit within spec. To that end, I never bothered with testing the Value PLA, only because I needed something for prototyping at a reasonable cost. Value PLA fits the bill here, just not so user friendly with my MMU2S. I have changed all my PTFE tubing to 3mm, so that would solve the feed issue. I should try it again.
As a side note, and this could easily be another topic, about 2 months ago, I switched out my brass E3D nozzle with a Micro Swiss and saw an improvement in print quality. I was thinking at the time, dang, this Micro Swiss is dope, but in hind sight, maybe more frequent change out of nozzles, as Jason pointed out, is all I need to do. Why the heck am I not changing out more frequently? Nozzles are not that expensive in the whole scheme of things 
I have a monthly nozzle change on my printers regardless of whether there is a drop in print quality. Like you said, it’s not worth the hassle of dealing with failed prints to save $3. I bought a couple of bondtech CHT nozzles but I haven’t tried them yet. I am excited and leery of messing up my beautiful normie brass nozzle settings though 
I used to change brass ones every KG or so. Now I am using X Nozzles they are awesome its been unchanged for many months.
Cleaning filament is not really going to effect stringing. Personally if most materials print well I’d look at temps then change the nozzle then look at other settings.
I was kinda thinking residue issue, kinda like needing to clean your chimney. maybe it’s something in the makeup of the filament that builds up on the nozzle, some chemical in the filament that carbonizes at the print temp and causes the stringing? Therefore when you change the nozzle or use the Purge filament the result would be the same? Just a theory…
interesting idea, I have found the nozzle aperture is an oval from wear. At least in my case anyway. Some colours seem to wear faster than others.
That’s along the same lines I’m thinking. I would be interested to know whether you or anyone else get a similar result with purging filament. I don’t suppose you’re making a lot of face shields these days?
no, unfortunately not, we jumped on the bandwagon with everyone at the beginning but after a while there was no demand so we broke the farm down.
I printed a temperature tower up to 245C, and the Euro silver PLA has good bridging and no stringing up to 245C. I find that very surprising, I’ve never had a PLA print at that temperature without some artifacts. I wonder what type of additives they’re using in their filament…