I have two B1 printers that are pretty much continuously printing. usually, long prints that can take a day or 2 but mostly less than a day (overnight). I have a couple of print heads that I replace when there is a problem so I don’t have to fiddle too much with a broken printer and I have one set up with a volcano and 1.2mm nozzle to really go fast on prints that arent critical or don’t have to be pretty. I experimented with different settings and tuning to get as much speed as I thought I could get with the .4mm nozzles and generally print around 100mm/s on the inner walls and vary between 60 and 100 for outer walls depending on how good the part has to be.
This week there wasn’t much to print so I was printing things for the shop and I had both printers with .4mm nozzles. One of the things I was trying to get caught up on was a big bracket I use to hold my filament containers to the walls in the shop. It’s way overdone but I was just not happy with regular shelves and wanted to have these holders to keep them separate and in their containers. I needed 14 of them and at .28mm they each take about 15 hours to print which is excessive. the 1.2 nozzles can do them in about 6 hours (if I recall) but there are sloping angles that are particularly ugly so I was just putting them on when there was a lull like today and on the .4mm nozzles.
Last night I watched this video from CHEP where he talks about a trick to get faster prints. his, in particular, was talking about 100% infill on a part and also on an ender3. The machine definition in Cura is similar to the B1 so I made a B1 version and it really worked, I don’t know why though. Instead of using an ender3 profile to start with you simply use an Ultimaker 3 profile and plug your own parameter in.
My printers just finished 2 of these brackets in 7 hours with a little more stringing (usually there is none) and not as nice on top but I’ll take it. They are pretty much identical to what I printed before but I increased the amount of infill from 10% to 20%, that might have cost me a little time but was an accident. I tried a lot of the same settings I see in this profile before trying to get more speed/better quality but nothing worked as well as this. So there is certainly seems to be something special under the hood for Ultimaker that’s not working on the other profiles.
I think one of the big reasons why is that if using the right kind of infill it’s waaaay less head moves for the printer. Also more continuous extrusions generally means faster overall head speeds, not slowing down for turns, etc.
I’ve recently switched up 2 printers to 0.8 nozzles. Depending on what you’re printing and the detail level you need (and if you’re ok with chewing through more filament) that might be a good option. I’ve been super happy for all the shop organizer stuff I’m printing right now. All PETG, nice and strong, 0.9mm x 0.6mm extrusions. Printing 2x2x2 open top type boxes in 1.5 hours and less than 140 slices/layers.
I have a print head with 1.2mm on it and yes it sure goes through those little boxes fast and they are stronger too. but It’s not the infill that’s making it faster it’s something else. I typically use gyroid and it’s fast and doesn’t cross over itself it might be part of it that the infill walls look thinner
Ahh right ok, I had watched that video as well too now that I looked at it again. It might be interesting to compare some GCODE and maybe see what they are doing differently. If you have any to share for the same model it would be neat to compare them. (I’m a programmer and a geek so I like this kind of stuff LOL).
Compared the 2 files I can’t really tell what the difference is I used CHEP’s new config and it works the same as the Ultimaker one, near as I can tell
What I’m seeing different here is that the gcode the one with the C3PRO filename is explicitly setting retraction and feed rates for almost every small block of moves.
The C3PRO one is also explicitly setting M204 S500 which is the combined printing and travel acceleration (using the Marlin legacy call, are you using anything Marlin 2 based or Marlin 1? I guess either way doesn’t matter as 2 supports the legacy call)
M205 X5 Y5 and M205 X8 Y8 is what it’s using for X and Y Max Jerk most times, and it’s doing it in very small sections. Sets 5, does a few things, sets 8, then usually does a lot more. Guessing it’s using 5 and 8 for different perimeters maybe (internal / external)?
It’s also forcefully setting the feed rates manually all over the place as well (F1500 looks like cold moves, and then F7500 once it’s extruding).
I’m pretty new to gcode (but obviously not code in general LOL) so just a guess, but I think that because it’s setting all that explicit feedrate and jerk rates it’s not allowing the printer to make any of it’s own decisions (which probably lean towards more conservative feedrates and slower jerk speeds).
All that said I’m assuming that the C3PRO one is CHEPs?
you that the one he uses for his enders. all that stuff works on my printer it’s not disabled at all in the firmware. I’ll get to play with it some more this week. I have a 10-hour print going right now and I’ll put the same part on again with CHEPS to make another part the same. to compare
I haven’t tried CHEPs profile yet, but I might just skip it and do the stuff Stefan covers in this video as he gets all that and more and seems to have figured out where the speed increases are coming from. I got a new CR Touch on my Ender with the BIQU H2 today so after a few more test prints to make sure things are good I’m gonna see what kinda speeds I can get outta this thing!
