Hello
I have Creality Cr10s Pro V2. When the filament runs out it trips the filament sensor and the printer pauses; however it also cools the bed when this happens. Needless to say the part adhesion to the bed is then lost and the print is ruined. I am using a PEI build plate.
RANT: Seriously Creality; LOL how could you send a printer into the marketplace with such a fundamental error - rookie mistake on your part.
RANT-OFF - any idea how to fix this.
Thanks for any reply.
This seems to be a known issue with pre-2021 Marlin firmware which doesn’t have the issue in the current versions. I believe that Creality uses a “forked” or modified version of Marlin which goes back earlier that this.
I believe that if you build or find a more recent version of the firmware, the problem is fixed.
After you change filament the printer cycles through a heat up phase. Assuming you don’t wait to long there shouldn’t be a problem.
Its absolutely a problem; some prints are 20 hours. So I cannot watch the printer and wait for the filament to run out; ; or keeping checking umpteen times a day; hopefully catching it near the end of the filament roll. Not going there. The printer will end up on Kijiji before i’ll do that. This issue shows how immature some of this technology is.
Use glass and glue. That will hold your print down even if the bed cools off, a lot better then those flex surfaces with fancy finishes.
It sounds like you want the printer to be able to sit around for many hours waiting for you to get around to changing the spool and that’s potentially very problematic. I don’t think it’s ever great to leave something that’s at 200C+ sitting around.
Could I suggest that rather than rely on the printer to do your thinking for you, how about you do a bit of pre-planning? A 20 hour print will probably not use up a whole 1kg spool so why don’t you just put on a new spool at the start of the print? If you are using a partial spool then get yourself a cheap kitchen scale and use it to figure out how much filament is on the spool and, using the slicer’s total usage, set a time that you expect the end of the spool to be close and change it then.
This is not an Epson or HP printer that stops automatically when the last piece of paper goes through or it runs out of toner or ink; it is really much closer to a manufacturing process which needs to be properly provisioned and set up.
It’s not a technology immaturity issue, it’s how you are looking at the situation.
Knowing of this flaw I do preplan; of course I do, to understand about when the filament will run out. I could be late in getting back to the printer or my estimations could be flawed; that is why a filament out switch trip should cause a printing pause with full bed temp. The filament out switch is pretty much useless isn’t it if the printer cools when its tripped?
The bed only runs at 50C-60C not 200C. The nozzle could be allowed to cool as that doesn’t cost lost prints.
If Creality was concerned about having the printer paused and sit for hours at full bed temp after the filament switch trips then they should build a timer into the printer that starts the cooling if the filament switch trip is not reset and printing not resumed by the operator after say 45 mins.
BTW manufacturing typically have capability built into the tools to protect against accidents, operator error, lost time and lost cost.
Its a bug in the product and a dumb one at that.
As was stated earlier it isn’t the printer design that is at fault but the Marlin firmware and probably plagued all brands of printers that used this firmware. It may be possible to upgrade that and solve this issue.
The firmware is in the printer and the printer is a Creality product soi I blame Creality for letting their printer hit the streets with this flaw. I need to look further to find it written in black and white in release notes, Creality communication etc. that this is a known issue and is fixed in version X.X.
Thanks for your help Loosenut, seriously thinking of your suggestion of glass and glue as the bind plate.
Glass is cheap and lasts for ever as long as you don’t drop it. Glue is less than cheap and it works. I have not had a single print edge curl or a print come loose since I switched over. The downside is you generally have to let the print cool down completely before you can get the print to release and even then it sometimes grips hard, just what you need if the print is paused. I use a sharp edge to get under a corner and twist, it will pop off with some effort. I can live with that since it solves the other problems.
Creality doesn’t write firmware and can only get what is available but it could be old. Check to see if there is an upgrade.