Hi!
I have another thread that I was getting quite a bit of help through while trying to sort out why my benchy has a lean in the direction of the Y axis. It started to get a bit muddled with me also posting questions about things I ran into going through Teaching Tech’s Calibration guide (https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html) while trying to resolve this. I thought it might be worth separating out the two topics.
This guide seemed to be highly recommended all over the interwebs. It’s a great step by step but I did run into some moments where I wasn’t exactly sure what to look for or if I was interpreting test prints correctly. I am hoping some of you kind folks have run through this as well and may have some tips. Some things I ran into:
- I did the Acceleration Tuning step and I wasn’t sure if the vertical ridges along the one side were to be expected. This is the side that cuts across on a diagonal. His example looked quite smooth but mine has very obvious vertical ridges. It could be just the quality of his video not showing enough detail but I am really not sure.
- I have found that while my first layer prints nicely, the second layer has very clear signs of over-extrusion which I find confusing…
I can’t stand it when people ask questions and don’t get an answer. I’m not an expert with 3D printing but have been a ‘user’ 6yrs, however, I just upgraded my (CR10S4) printer. New motherboard, drivers, touchscreen, BLTouch, etc. I had to learn how everything worked and to set it up. Yes, it was quite the struggle watching many, many, hrs of YT, but my printer is finally working again. I followed the Teaching Tech ‘Calibration’ web page to the tee many times. I also ran his tests several times. I think if you try to use his guide and perform ALL his recommended tests such as “Frame Check” etc, you’ll get a good grasp of what’s going on. From what I see on your pictures it isn’t temp nor filament issues, it’s either a setting somewhere in Marlin. Apparently we can’t use 'jerk" settings nor “linear advance” at the same time. Also, do a PID tuning, it’s real easy per Teaching Tech. I know it’s frustrating as heck but you’ll eventually fix it. Also, check that there’s is no ‘play’ (looseness) with the ‘V’ slot wheels. Let us know if you found the cause of your issues!
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If anything i appriciated that you came back to this and offered help 
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I may have to run through it again. I did all the steps in the calibration that applied but I may have misinterpreted something and not gotten it quite right. From the sounds of your reply I should see better results than what I got.
Thanks!
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Yes, I honestly do. I went through the process several times and each time things were getting better and just a reminder…is your filament “cheap or old” which can affect results, if you checked your frame once, no need to repeat it as everything should be ‘square and tight’. Do the PID check first, it’s very easy and is VERY important for ‘stable’ temps, make sure the filament is fresh and reputably sourced, then, complete the other checks. I was very discouraged doing this process because I’d had never played around with these settings but NOW I get it! One other thing I’ll mention is don’t get discouraged. Let us know, there are people watching this forum who have much more experience than myself. Note: I also watched this helpful series of videos which references the Teaching Tech site Calibrating your 3D printer - Ender 3 V2 - YouTube .
Good filament is key, but i have even had to dry fresh filament once or twice. So keep that in mind.
Ive found “bad/wet” pla to be more brittle and some say you hear popping/hissing or such from the nozzle when it extrudes but i cant confirm that.
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