Heater_ID Error into No Printer Attached

I’m getting the Heater_ID error with a continuous “System loading” message on startup, which has recently turned into No Printer Attached. My printer is mostly stock but I’ll mention any additional changes at the bottom.

Error started occurring after replacing the hotend parts. Originally just had to replace the aluminum heatblock cause I stripped the threads from overtightening the nozzle. Bought a new heatblock, new nozzle, and metal heatbreak, as well as a backup thermistor and heater cartridge. Reassembled with the new metal parts and old thermistor and old heater cartridge, which worked fine for a print or 2 but started running into heatcreep issues. Reverted to the stock parts (larynx heatbreak, old nozzle) which was also fine for a test print. I forgot to fully tighten the nozzle after heating and the bed levelling reset or something and ground the nozzle into the bed, causing filament to ooze out of the top of the heatblock. Took it apart and went to plug it back in so I could reheat the block and fully disassemble and clean, which is when I started getting the “MAXTEMP reached. Heater_ID” error and subsequent “Printer halted. kill() called”.

At this point I thought I might have broke the wires in the thermistor or heater cartridge from so much assembly/disassembly. Fortunately, I had ordered the spare thermistor and heater cartridge so I plugged those in to the hotend board but was still getting the Heater_ID error. I bought a new hotend board, tried plugging in both the old hotend assembly and the old hotend assembly with the same error. To clarify, at this point I’ve got 2 full hotend assemblies.

Next, tried updating the firmware with no change. I had read that someone changed the main extruder pins on the mainboard (altering the pin definitions in firmware and physical connection on the board), but still got the same error. This whole time the status line at the top was reading “System loading” indefinitely, but overnight it changed to “No printer attached”.

Does anyone have any ideas what else I can test or what other problems I might be having? At this point, I’m guessing it could be a problem with the USB cable or a mainboard issue, but I want to be 100% sure that money will solve the problem before going and buying more new stuff. The USB cable has the “power off before removing” tags on it and I very well might have disconnected without turning off power, but I also want to believe that wouldn’t have been that big of an issue…

Thanks for reading. If there’s any other info I can provide I’d be happy to. Would love to get this thing running again, and learn a little more as I go. Any help is super appreciated.

Other changes:
BL Touch has been installed since I got the printer (probably over a year ago now)
I’ve added a second Z-axis. Bought the kit for it so it was really easy to do, basically just plug it in and go.
Replaced one of the mainboard/case cooling fans with a 12v fan + buck converter. I’ve heard this isn’t the best but it’s what I had at the time and it doesn’t seem to have been an issue so far. It’s also super quiet which is nice.

1 Like

I have the same problem…

Welcome to the forum, I’ll try and help have you done anything to diagnose the problem when did it start?

Yes, when I identified the problem, I changed the Thermistor on the hotend, without success…then I plugged in a new hotend but still without success. I’m trying to use the TH1 pin instead of the TH0 because in the tests I’ve been thinking that the problem may be a problem with the TH0 pin

on this printer, it could also be the USB C cable, try a thermister directly onto the board. there are lots of failure points in between. both ends of the USB cable plug into circuit boards that could also prevent the connection.

So, first of all, thank you very much for your answer, I changed the usb-C cable…without success, and turned off the thermister of the board, but even when turned off the board has a value of 188 degrees, so I believe that in fact the TH0 pin of the board has been damaged. But I imagine that changing the thermister to TH1 can make the printer work again, can you help with this change?

yes, you will have to edit your firmware and change the pins.h configuration file. here is a video I used to get familiar with the process of editing the firmware. I had to do this similar thing when I swapped out my motherboard on one printer and one of inputs was not functional, like yours. you’ll need to know the exact model of your motherboard so the environment can be set up properly. I’m not the best one for this as I generally just learn only what I need to to get the task complete then don’t go back to it after. but once you get the specifics for your printer at hand anything else is super easy to find tutorials on, because the rest of the programming is all the same.