Hot ends for Eryone er20 (terrain printing)

hi every one,

I recently got a Eryone at an auction, its in pretty good shape, however it needs a new hot end.

i print mainly terrain with FDM and was hoping some one could lead me to a good replacement choice

thanks for your time and response

Before you go throwing money at it, can I ask how you know it needs a new hot end, as opposed to a new heater?

Usually one replaces an entire hot end when:

  • switching from a Bowden tube setup to a direct-drive setup
  • you want to print high-temperature materials, beyond what the original manufacturer’s hot-end was capable of
  • you want to print with multiple nozzles (multi-colour printing), or you want to print at high speed and require a hot end that can melt more material faster
  • you want to switch from 2.85mm filament to 1.75mm or vice versa

If it’s just that a fan isn’t working, or the temperature readings are wrong, or the hot end isn’t heating up, those each have replaceable parts that will fix the problem but if it is one of these, you will want to first check that the controller board is actually functioning properly (ie. that a MOSFET that controls the heater isn’t dead, etc.)

Make sure you’ve diagnosed the actual problem first, before you throw money at it.

We can help you with that if you give us more detailed information.

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I agree with Lego. This is wise advise. I am going to toss out an alternate thought. If you are interested in printing and not actually the printer it is quite likely you are embarking on a 50$ path plus a bunch of time tinkering. I can’t tell you how valuable your time is.

If your time is valuable, don’t. Buy a better printer that will do what you want out of the box, no tinkering. I wish I was given this before I spent a stupid amount of money in new parts, shipping, and a huge amount of time. I now am the proud owner of a printer that sucked up as much of my resources as a high end printer but own a low end one.

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Guess I just need a the wires to the hotend and a new heater block the rest of it is in good condition.

I would agree I started off with an ender3pro around 2years ago, it was a good work horse, didn’t give me to much issues and only had to upgrade the motherboard.

This eryone that I just got was 185 after taxes figure any fixing I need to do would be easy enough and still keep me below its full cost.

The person that had it before me, I think they thought it would be pluge and play and did level everything and when it printed it just clogged up and entombed the hotend.

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Ah! Now there’s something you could have told us at the beginning! If the hot end is encased in plastic, first, try heating the hot end to 250C and leaving it on for a while to melt the entire block of plastic. If the printer’s internal heater isn’t working (usually because someone tried breaking the plastic off without melting it first and broke the wires), then use a heat-gun and/or hair dryer, although heating it externally takes a lot longer than heating it internally. Eventually, you’ll be able to pick the plastic off down to the aluminum block. Then just replace the heating element and/or thermistor as necessary. I’ve had 3 encasements since starting last November. Plastic doesn’t harm Aluminum. It’s always salvageable. It’s user impatience that actually does the most damage so take it slowly.

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Guess I’m not being vary clear my apologies.

So I bought a eryone for 185$ from an auction,

The previous owner I believe didn’t understand the need to properly level everything before using it. Which I belive caused the hotend to back up and cover and entombed the hot end, when it was removed it must of damaged the wires.

It’s not still covered.

So the hot end (aluminum block) is now free of plastic… have you checked there resistance of the thermistor wire and the heater wire, or is it obvious they need to be replaced? Heaters run about $10, thermistors run about $5. This should be a really cheap fix for you, even if you replace both.

On the Thermistor front, there is more variety. They are spec’ed at a temperature of 25C and will either increase or decrease their resistance as the temperature increases. The question is: by how much?

If you haven’t already, download the manual for that printer and see if it specifies what model of thermistor the hot-end uses. Let’s say 100Kohm (at 25C), Negative temperature coefficient would be a common one, but there will be some model number associated with it that will indicate the all-important “how much it changes” value. That value needs to match what the firmware is programmed to expect. The people at 3DPC will probably be able to tell you what the thermistor model number should be if you can’t find it in the manual.

Heaters are quite a bit simpler. Again, consult the manual or 3DPC to find out what the printer originally used. You’ll need to know whether it’s a 12V or (more likely) 24V printer and the heater is usually around 40W.

Do not throw away the old heater and/or thermistor. You may need to adapt the old cables in case you can’t get models with exactly the same cable connections.

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I am glad you have eyes open. If I recall correctly the eryone has a weird proprietary rectangular heat block?

I’d not bother messing with it and just swept it out for an all metal e3d and just bite the bullet and upgrade the whole hot end. It will be less trouble in the long run.

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Thanks for the help.

I’ll probably just get the whole hotend as splicing isn’t something I’m fully comfortable doing.

Speaking of Entombing the hot end…I knew it was a little early to take a nap.

I had a nap at 1PM. An biplane woke me up an hour later and this is what awaited me. This took about 15 minutes to clean up. It’s printing fine again. I’m just showing you this to demonstrate that this sort of thing is completely recoverable.