I just finished getting my CR10 v3 upgraded to an SKR E3 Turbo board. I was seeing some funny things happening with the stock board, so I decided to change out the board and upgrade at the same time. Only upgrade my printer has is a BLTouch from Creality. I don’t know what their idea of color coding the wires were, but luckily I checked before trusting that.
The wiring was a bit confusing, but here is what I did.
All of the Heater for Bed, Thermistors, Stepper Motor, and Limit switches fit right in with no change.
The SKR has 2 Power connectors. I used the first one as Power IN. and the one next to the HB screw connector as Power OUT. BE VERY CAREFUL OF POLARITY HERE.
Here is the rest
For the display, Plug only one cable between the Display connector on the board to the EXP3 connector on the Display.
For the Hot end Heater:
Cut the connector off, Tint the wires and Screw them into HE0 observing polarity. Just so you don’t go through the same hassle as me, those green terminals pull straight out of the board, making it easy to attach the wires and then pop it back on.
For the Stepper Motor cooling fan:
Plugs into Fan2
For Case cooling fan (back of case):
Cut off connector, Tint wires, and put them in Power OUT.
Parts Fan is the single wire fan connector (labeled kFan) and it plugs straight into Fan0
HE Fan (labeled Fan) and it Plugs into Fan1 ( for this to work requires a firmware change. I will talk about that in the next part of this install. )
The Filament runout plugs into Fil-Det (E0-Stop in some of the diagrams)
and now the BLTouch wires…
You will need a 4 wire connector that fits in the Z-probe connector (Yes 4 wire) This can be one you crimp or if you have the proper 5 pin connector that will work also, you will however only be using 4 of the wires. I used a flat black connector, spliced the wires, and then held it in the socket with a touch of hot glue.
Now the wires
Find the D11 wire, it is attached to another 3 pin connector called +zlimit. If you follow all four wires down… they are all attached to the same ribbon cable. The way I did this was leave the D11 connector on, and cut the +zlimit connector. D11 will be the reference wire and will be cut only after the other 3 are soldered.
Strip and tint the 3 +zlimit wires.
The wires are as follows… in this order on the ribbon cable:
The Z-Probe connector on the board is:
Ground don’t use
5 Volts use
D11 (servo0) use
Splice your 3 wires to your connector making sure they match up, then cut, tint, and splice the D11 wire to complete the new connector and plug it on the board.
Hope this helps on the HW side. I will try and write up the firmware changes, but since I was already using my own firmware, that was working fine at the time… I will just add the changes compared to a stock CR10v3 configuration files from Marlin.