Working and the only thing I replaced was spring to Shillicon spacer now after I level my prints only stick till layer 3 or 4 then it fall off bed and this is my ender3 v2
have you accurately calibrated your first layer? Is the z height done and have you trammed (leveled ) the bed?
How do you Calibrate the bed
I’m not that familiar with the Ender 3V2, so my suggestion may be a red herring, but…
When I see someone posting that a print sticks initially but falls of later, I immediately think of those printers that have “ECO Mode”. That’s a mode in which the printer turns off the bed heat after X number of layers. The idea, of course, was to save energy, but on many build surfaces, a cold bed causes the print to be released.
In case the Ender 3 is one of those “ECO Mode” printers, turn ECO mode off so the bed remains hot and the print continues to stick right to the end.
Try following TeachingTech’s calibration guide. You should really follow the whole thing, if you haven’t already.
In response to your question on setting up the bed, follow this page in the guide:
It will produce 5 thin squares in the corners and center of the bed. There is a video on what they should come out looking like but, generally speaking, they should all be the same thickness; have extrusion lines that connect to each other with no gaps; have no ridges (ie. rough texture) that would indicate over extrusion; and, of course, they should all stick.
I have had the same problem on my ender 3v2 but only with one particular roll of filament, all others stick very well. Could yours be wet or maybe try another roll to see if the problem goes away.
As far as "calibrating " the bed isn’t that a fancy way of saying getting it levelled really well and setting the Z offset. You can upgrade the firmware to the Jyers UI version which allows you to use it’s built in bed levelling routines, this can easily level a bed to under 0.02MM, more if you are a glutton for punishment. This works best with a BR/CR touch and makes a huge difference on the first layer. Adjusting the Z offset is easy with the Jyers firmware.
I have never seen a printer that the bed turns off. Creality typically use a self releasing bed.
That you don’t know how to calibrate you Z height and tram (level) the bed means it is likely off.
It is a basic starting point
I cant comfirm for the ender 3v2 but the cr10s pro does have this dreaded eco mode and yeah. It turns off the bed heater after a few layers and usually results in a failed print.
Its not really a feature that ive understood to be useful, but luckily it can be turned off. Specifically i dont remember how, but play around with the menus and im sure if its there youll find it.