Im a bit unsure but my prints keep failing

Hello,

I’m trying to print with PETG with my Ender 3 S1, but it fails 1/3 into the print. The brim seems very frail compared to the brim the Ultimaker at work makes for a solid start for a print.

I’m using filament from eSun and set the print temp as described on the box, I have even been playing with the range a bit. The same for the bed. eSun has been tested on the Ultimaker at work with no issues.

I’m using Cura to slice the print, nothing special

  • 50 mm2 speed
  • 40 % infill
  • Brim
  • Z retraction

This is my result:

What I’m trying to print:

model

I think my brim is a bit thin compared to what the Ultimaker “makes”.
It actually seems “to hot”, the brim seems pretty frail. But it manages to print and the total failure coms 1/3 into the print. Its hard to see with the black filament, but they did not have white as it was what I wanted.

Is Cura not the prefered slicer? As I understand it’s the same, but the Ender 3 slicer has “Flow 100%” in material settings, Cura has no such setting. I might be able to test 110% for instance to get a good brim as I do with the Ultimaker.

Is the Ender 3 a “PLA printer”? In that I mean that PETG is that much harder to get right?

Welcome!

No you can print PLA on an ender. An enclosure helps but isn’t 100% necessary.

I think you have underextrusion, either temps or clog are the most likely. It also seems like the filament is not extruding smooth strings but a textured one? That can be damp filament. One of the issues of PETg.

What temps are you setting? Try checking for a clog. (extrude a bit of filament with the nozzle off the plate a bunch it should come out straight and smooth if it is not there is junk in the nozzle.

Did you make sure that Cura is set for the Ender 3S1. If not your settings will be wrong. There is a setting for it. PETG should not be a problem.

Yes, I added a new printer and selected my printer.

I’m going to try setting the “Flow” to 105% (increment by 5%) as the main indicator compared to the ultimaker is the frail brim that it’s printing.

The printer is not located in the best location with humidity in mind, but how fast does the filament go bad? I got my printer last week and also bought the petg too.

Depends on the type of filament and the conditions it is stored in. PLA is fairly forgiving but will need drying eventually, PETG will go quicker and nylon can fail in days to hours, depending on the humidity.

Success! I’m now running Flow at 110% which might be a lot but got the job done. The brim looks more like the one Ultimaker puts down and since I have experience with it at work and its good quality print then its all good :slight_smile: 110% might be too much, but thanks for the tip, I know how do adjust it going forward.

Hi @larsey welecome to the forum.

Just as a curious question. Did you check the Cura slicer settings? can you double check that its set for 1.75 filament and not 2.85?

110 % flow is very high for your print to start working properly? It would be that or your extruder calibration could be off or slipping? just a question so the problem does not jump back up again in the future.

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Hello @Jason !

I just did a reprint at 105%, it came out better. I’m also going to investigate my z gap. I’ve been fine tuning it and that also made improvements. But I also increased bed temp from the recommended 80 to 82 also. Been playing around from 70 but I guess I need the heat :slight_smile:

The Cura setting is set at 1.75.

ok, that being said I just wanted to double check. I would recommend running a 100mm calibration test on your extruder just to verify the e-staps have not changed for any reason. If your esteps are good, try a previous print you know worked well and see if that still works ok. That would eliminate a hardware failure and we know at that point its either temp or slicer settings.

Whats a 100mm calibration test? Is that a specific 3d model, rectangular/square 100mm?

E step calibration.Make 100% certain you have a clear nozzle, or you are calibrating a clog that will change.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps

I am not certain how much experience you have so the extrusion multiplier method is less accurate but simpler and will do basically the same thing.

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