I was having a serious pooling issue so I took apart my heater block. Filament was everywhere.
When trying to put back together this happened, is this fixable or do I need to buy a new wire? And if I need to buy a new one what is it called?
Printer: Ender3 v2 with the metal micro swiss hot end
Is it for the heater cartridge (round about 1/4" diam and 1/2" long") or the thermistor (small little glass bead). Replacing either is cheap, actually dirt cheap, so why mess around with it unless you have to.
the thermistor (small little glass bead).
You will need to replace it. Even if you tried to solder the joint you would likely change the rsistance and the temps would be off.
I don’t have an ender but generally speaking when I place an order I’d confirm with the sales staff it is correct. If they suggest something in error you have leverage to get it exchanged no problems. (3DPC is good but not all suppliers are)
As far as I know all the Ender 3’s, Max’s, Pro’s and V2’s use the same hot end and should use the same thermistors. You will need to check with Microswiss to see if theirs is the same unless you reused the one that came with your printer. Be very careful when installing the thermistor because the wires are very fragile and if you tighten them to much they can be ruined. Just snug them up. You can contact 3D Printing Canada and ask them, they should know since they sell Microswiss hot ends.
I’ve replaced one on my Ender 3 Max. If you’re ok with soldering, you can just replace the thermistor. If not, you can purchase the whole assembly with cable. It is a standard thermistor. Note that the new thermistor doesn’t come with the clear insulation, so that you’ll have to swap it end for end and re-use it.
Even if you tried to solder the joint you would likely change the rsistance and the temps would be off.
This is very unlikely. Soldering the leads will add something on the order of 0.5 Ohm to the resistance of the circuit - since the thermistor’s resistance will never go before 1k, this is not a concern.
Honestly, I would not recommend somebody to try and splice the lines as it’s fairly delicate work with fairly tight tolerances to make sure you don’t create a short across the locking screw AND the cost of a replacement thermistor is negligible.
I agree replacing it is the only real option.
@mykepredko interesting I’m not an electrician but when I was working for a zoo we found resistivity thermostats if you damaged the probe (banging it in the door repeatedly) the accuracy would drop. I tried a number of times to replace the cords and re solder pull loose probes and the result was always the same the accuracy changed dramatically. A probe that would be with in 1ºF +/- would end up 5-8ºF +/- making it useless.
Eventually the zoo switched to a unit that moved all the electronics to the probe tip and only sent data back. This was to improve accuracy and decrease changes with cable damage.
I was told that this was due to micro changes in resistance. The change in resistance because of temperature fluctuations were very small so any change in resistance changed the temperature reading.
I assumed this applied to 3d printers too. My mistake.
My comment was on the 100k NTC B 3950 thermistors normally used in 3D printers - “micro changes” in resistance shouldn’t affect anything at all.
I’d have to know more about the thermistors used in the Zoo thermostats to comment about that situation as “banging it in the door” seems to imply there was more damage than metal fatigue to the wires.
Regardless, 3D thermistors are cheap and plentiful and a pain to solder.
