Wonder if you can give us a little more info on this.
This print looks like it may be tiny.
How large is this print?
What material are you printing
What is the hot end temp
What is the bed temp
what size nozzle are you using
Are you direct drive or Bowden setup?
what printer are you using?
Would you mind attaching a picture of the model as a whole? or maybe an overall when its in your slicer? Just trying to see the targeted result
I think the quality may be able to be increased by just an orientation adjustment but before I go there let me just gather the information above.
the first thing that comes to mind on this is to ask if you have done a temp tower with the Sakata filament. It seems like a cold temp to be able to print with that filament.
I generally have to print white about 225 to start sometimes 230 depending on the printer and if it has an enclosure.
Size and nozzle diameter seems reasonable at first glance, you could reduce your layer height to .12 or even .1 to get better detail but again nothing that would produce the results you are seeing here.
I am assuming you are printing this with the bad side down, (as I understand your explanation) it does not look like you are using supports of any kind. This may explain some of the odd extrusions we well.
If you reoriented the model so the “feet” are on the build plate you may get better results throughout. can make a better suggestion when you post up a pic of the model itself.
Thanks for the information, As far as I am personally concerned, we are all equal in the 3D printing world, anything can get hard to figure out once in a while. Pics and videos are great for communicating but we will get you going no problem at all. If we don’t understand something we will ask for more info.
Back to your model, If it was me (my personal opinion) I would print the models individually and in the upright orientation. I guess vertical would be the best description.
This is actually the exact orientation I would print it in with a couple of things based per part.
Legs - I would print them in the current orientation but with a rather large BRIM as when you get towards the top they may become a little “wobbley” will help to anchor them for solid printing.
Arms - I would print them in the same orientation again with the brim, Slower though so you do not loose the detail in the hands, You will have some cleanup to do in the tricep area but should be minimal.
Torso - again vertial with support to print it above the “tab” on the bottom. If possible add tree supports for her “bathing suit” areas and ensure they do not … well … sag (there is just no other way to say that)
Head, - I would print it upside down becuase of the hair, Small contact point on the top of the head, Brim to make sure it stays stable and because of the face and detail I would drop the layer hight to maybe .1.
Hope this helps, I think you would see better success if you printed one part at a time though, With limited filament if you get a failure you would be more likely to be able to get a completed model.
Thank you for the info. I will definitely test that once I switch to ABS (post-processing options easier for me).
Right now I’m just burning through some junky PLA that came with my printer. Using it, I’m experimenting with orientation and seeing the effects and results. I’ve got her torso printing in about 6 different orientations so I will have physical references for which direction worked best VS which was most troublesome.
The data from this test should help me with determining orientation on future prints.
Will let you know how it turns out.
Additionally - I’m still using automatically generated supports, though I have acquired Meshmixer and will eventually use it to create custom supports before importing to Cura and slicing
I am not going to re hash what has been said. The print speed can also make a difference. You could try slowing the print. The arcs vary wilding with orientation. I am 100% with Jason about the torso vertically, I think it will be better just as it was.