where to begin,
proper leveling (actually its tramming or paralleling), correct temps, proper bed cleaning then finally the upgrades.
my adventure started out with a ender 3 v2 from amazon, i had constant issues with prints failing which was from a factory defect (warped glass bed).
first the leveling that creality offers for printers is garbage as when you disassable the steppers your also disabling the zaxis which will cause the z to move which will make your leveling not work, i believe that teaching tech (youtube channel) has a gcode generator that is for leveling that you can grab which works pretty good as it lifts then moves the x&y then lowers for you to level in your corners.
for learning about correct temps this can actually not vary per machine but per filaments, all of my pla is advertised to be used at 195-230c but it prints best at 215c for the first layer then 205c for the rest of the print, where petg is best at 245c for first layer 235c for the rest but its saying 220-255c on the spool, if you have a heated bed you also have to find what temps work best for that (trial and error). to best find what temps work best i use a temp tower in cura which changes the temps per section this allows me to find what temp works best with what filament category.
to this day i still have print issues every now and then, for proper bed cleaning a nice wipe with a paper towel and some 99%IPA works to remove almost all forgain debris from your print surface. if your print still fails then washing the print surface with your standard dawn dish soap (or even dollar store equivelent) will help i always prep my surface with a wipe from IPA and i have a 95% successful print rate.
finally the upgrades portion
the best upgrade you can probably do is firmware upgrades followed by hardware upgrades.
for firmware on my ender 3 v2’s (got 2 of them) im using the JyersUI firmwares now these firmwares are way better then the stock firmwares as it allows for more gcode commands like a m600 which is change filament command this would allow you to print half of your print then change the color to continue it. I use this for decoritave or toys (bath toy ship). For hardware upgrades i upgraded the soft thin springs with the hardened yellow metal ones, i replaced the plastic wheels with metal ones, changed out the stock ptfe tubing with the capercorn one, and changed out the plastic extruder with the metal one, ive also added on the CR Touch Kit (like a BL touch but with the creality logo on it). when it comes to hardware upgrades its tempting to do everything all at oncebut dont, make one change then wait a week then make another change then wait a week this allows you to tune in your changed part to make sure it runs smoothly, this probably doesnt apply to the metal wheels and spring upgrade as you could do both at the same time.
Bonus tip to add in is to calibrate your Extruder Steps when you first get the printer. my 2 printers are both ender 3 v2 units and the esteps are different on the 2 machines close but different. to calibrate it you tell your printer to extrude 100 mm of filament then it spits out what it thinks is 100mm cut off what it spit out and measure it, google for a e step calculator then input your current estep and how much filament you were given from the machine, the online calculator will give you a new estep number to change your old one to, make the change then retest i have yet to get bang on perfect to 100mm for the esteps but having it at 100.05mm is as close as ill get.
2 more tips as this is getting long lol
learn what infills work best for different functions, im using cura and i find that cubic (3d triangles) works best for decoritive prints where lines works best for functional prints.
last tip is to have fun with it, and if your getting fusturated with your prints failing then just take a break and come back to it in an hour or so. ive had times when ive wanted to toss my printers but just taking a break from them and letting me come back with a clear head made all the difference.