This is only my second reasonably successful PETG print.
Am I alone in this, or does anyone else find that 3DPC’s recommended print temperatures are way off?
On my first print, I had multiple Bowden tube clogs which I eventually realised were being caused by heat creep. I had been printing in the mid to upper range of the recommended temperature. The print above was done near the bottom of the recommended temperature range. I’m re-printing it below the recommended temperature range and still getting stringing.
No, I obviously did not print a temperature tower first. I just dove right in. So, either my hot-end thermistor reading is significantly below reality or 3DPC’s box labels are way off.
I’ve found that even changing 3 degrees can drastically drop stringing.
Unfortunately, (or fortunately if you like this kinda thing) for me, a retraction tower and a temp tower go hand in hand. Even linear Advance might need a look at, all this because the 'springy-ness of PETG vs PLA is different enough to matter.
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Aside for all the inevitable settings discussion. I find nozzle wear is a big factor in stringing. Personally I was just printing translucent Petg from 3DPC today no stringing at all.
First layer: 240ºC and 85ºC on the bed, Remaining layers: 250ºC and 90ºC. I don’t use much cooling and normal retraction for a direct drive. (0.8mm @ 35 mm/s)
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Interesting. I’m still getting minor stringing at 225C.
I usually swap out the nozzle first before settings personally.
Did you do a temp tower?
The color additives will change the temps. I don’t use many 3dpc PetG filaments. My go to is a different brand. The temps are often similar. At lower temps you need to watch layer adhesion it can seriously compromise the part strength and flexibility.
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Thanks for the tip. I have, in fact, been having a problem with one of the parts I’ve been printing snapping one or more of its clips. I’ve begun to realise that the model itself (from thingiverse) has a fundamental design flaw, but layer adhesion may be making it worse.
It’s always a conundrum. The design effects strength in many ways. I print mostly for strength. 90* corners if you add a fillet will be stronger (if you can). I also on occasion use thicker line width. 0.4 to 0.5 usually. It can change the dimensions and will over extrude but increases the “squish” and can help durability.
Once you get stringing controlled. That said if you need strength sacrificing clean might be acceptable. A bit hotter more filament and some extra strings might prevent breaks.
I have been tinkering with printing PetG and then pla panels to glue on to the PetG part. Clearly not for everything but it is a idea I have had.
I want a tool changer!
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