I have had very good results with PLA and now want to try PETG.
There seems to be a lot of conflicting information on the internet, so I thought I would ask here.
What temps and setup works well for PETG on the Ender 3 v2?
Thanks in advance,
Frank
If youāre able to find the PrusaSlicer presets for Generic PETG, it works fabulous. You can also use PrusaSlicer for free with the Ender3 V2, if youāre new to PrusaSlicer, it might get a bit of time to get used too, but I know a lot of people love PrusaSlicer and its great
Thanks for the quick reply, I will look into it.
I have only used Curaā¦ I guess it might be time to have a look at PrusaSlicer.
I am about to use Cura for my first time! My Printerās a CraftBot Flow. For my Temps I used 230 degree Celsius HotEnd & 70 degree bed I am pretty sure (just swapped to MacOS, & my PETg projects were done on my old PC LapTop)
Make sure you use a glue stick, blue tape or an alternative to help with Bed-Print adhesion 
GoodLuck!
-Lg
Hi, you can go on the Web and look for āātechnivorousāā this guy have good set-up on Cura for Petg. For my self, I do 235deg. hotend and the bed at 70deg. Work geat for PETG!
Happy printing!
I use 235C for the hotted and 75C for the bed. This works for most of the PETG filament sold by 3DPC
Yeah Prusa Slicer has some really good features. Considering itās free and open source, Iāve seen a lot of people use it regardless of whether they have a Prusa or not, they added in support for non prusa printers a while ago too so you should be able to just get the profiles if PrusaSlicer doesnāt work out for you.
Cheers,
The less you cool PETG, the stronger and more transparent your print will be. (unless of course youāre using an opaque filament). Print quality suffers, though, so Iāve found that a little bit of cooling helps.
On my Ender 5, I usually set it to 23%, enabling it well into the model - say layer 14 or so. On something tall and slender, it might eventually want more cooling than that.
A small value for the part-cooling fan can lead to a situation where there isnāt enough torque to start the fan, even though it would run at the required speed.
The Ender runs Marlin. If youāre ambitious enough to recomile it and reflash the firmware you can uncomment the line
#define FAN_KICKSTART_TIME
in the Configuration_adv.h file and try out a few values until you get it to spin.
Iām not (yet) that ambitious, so I use a simple g-code hack to get the same effect.
Using your favourite text editor, open the *.gcode file and search for the Last instance of the command āM106ā. This will be the command at the end of the print, turning the fan off. Then, search backwards to find the second-last M106 command. This will be the command that sets the fan to the value you chose in your slicer. Make a copy of the M106 command a few lines later, say, after 3 or so G commands. Then go back and change the original command to M106 S255.
As the gcode is interpreted, the printer will encounter this first M106 command, which will set the part cooling fan to 100%. A very short time later, after a few moves, it will encounter the second of these M106 commands - the one you copied into this new location - which will set the fan back to the speed you actually want.
Hey Gates
Welcome to the Forum
Jason
Your best bet is to first print a Temp tower to see what your printer likes for each different brand and color of filament. I would suggest to do Luke Hatfields hot end fix or run an all metal heatbreak to handle the long high temps of a PETG print.
I use an Ender 3 and Ender5 plus both at 250-.90
230 on the nozzle 70 to 80 on the bed and donāt start park cooling until about layer 5 I never go above 40% on the fan
I use both 3D Printing Canada house brand PETG and Overture PETG on an Ender 5 Pro and 3 Pro, both at 240 and 80 first layer 70 subsequent layers. I print on blue tape over mirrors with 5 mm retraction and 45mm print speed, 0%fan first layer and 50% subsequent. Works good for me with little to no stringing.
I believe I print PETG at 245 on the nozzle and 70 on the bed with painters tape on glass for adhesion with my Ender 3
For me one of the big issues was first layer print speed. I was generally trying to print faster, and pushed the first layer too far, with hard-fail results. 15mm/s is my current safe for anything speed for PETG, glue stick on glass.
Just used your exact setup for PETG and probably the best petg print I have had yet to date
I personally believe whenever getting into a new filament you always must do test prints Hollow cubes Hollow pyramids temperature towers etc dial your filament boys itās the best thing you can do also making sure filament is dry is important filament does not always come dry sometimes the bag might have got air in it and then sat on the shipping container for 60 to 90 days not the end of the world just try your filament boys
My house is a dry box right now, 20% humidity. Iāve got all my filament out of the bags/box because it was more humid in than out
is the 15 mm/s for print speed or just inital print speed?