I have an Ender 5 Plus and I started getting under extrusion problems with the stock hot end after a few hundred hours of worry free printing. I had bought the Micro Swiss all metal when I got the machine so I immediately just made the upgrade. At the same time, however, the stock extruder was giving me issue and I had it rigged up with zip ties to provide enough tension. So when the new hot end was failing right out of the gate I just assumed it was the extruder still so I replaced it with the, oh so pretty, red metal extruder. I thought, “sweet, let’s get this show on the road! I can finally try to catch up on the almost 100hrs of printing I’m behind in orders!”
The hot end is jamming after about 5 lines of brim (roughly 12"x10" perimeter).
So I looked into it and it may be possible that the stock fan isn’t providing enough cooling and I’m getting heat creep. I’m using 3d Printing Canada house brand PLA at 220C. I know that’s a bit high but I’ve had problems with it before at the lower end of its printing temp range. Retraction is 3mm @ 40mm/s, default print speed is 75mm/s and travel is 200mm/s
My questions are…
- Do I need to get a better heat sink fan? If so, which one and from where?
- Is there a better solution to prevent the heat creep and consequent jamming?
I need to get this thing back up and running asap.
I appreciate everyone’s time! Thank you!
What’s the most effective way to prevent heat creep on a Micro Swiss all metal hot end for the Ender 5 Plus?
I have a 5 plus that prints pretty damn good.
Right off the bat, I dont like the micro swiss all metal hot end. I bought the micro swiss complete direct drive kit, but I kept the factory hot end when i did the conversion. I have Zero complaints about this set up. No need for additional fans or such.
Your retraction should be 6.5mm @ 25mm/s
With the micro swiss hot end, bring your hotend temp down to 210. Consider a temperature tower test.
Make sure you have installed your bowden tube correctly. Keep the nozzle one turn loose and butt the bowden tube up to it. While at full heat say 200, tighten the nozzle. This will ensure there is no gap between the bowden and nozzle.
Make sure your bowden tube is not moving at the fitting on the extruder.
Also ensure your filament is dry.
did you calibrate your extruder? I know mine was a way off.
Extruder Calibration Guide (with Calculator) - E Step Calibration | 3D Print Beginner
Cheers and Good Luck
Thank you for your feedback!
I’ll make those retraction changes and drop the temp.
I may switch back to the stock hot end if the Micro Swiss doesn’t start producing. I’m sure my original issue was just the stock plastic extruder being broken and I should’ve only replaced that instead of putting the Micro Swiss in there as well.
Make sure you check the Bowden cable for a gap at the nozzle. That can really rain on your parade.
Here are some of the things I am currently doing with my 5 plus.
Printed AC/DC’s Hells Bell and it turned out pretty flawless. Now Im printing a full blown mechanical clock.
That’s amazing! This is what I aspire to be doing. Some of the items in my shop benefit greatly from the extra build volume. Those gears look so great! Love the Hell’s Bell!
I’ll check the bowden situation too. I think I’m gonna grab some more capricorn tubing and re-run the setup. I’ll need it for sure if I end up going the direct drive route anyway.
Has the conversion to direct drive been worth it for you so far? I wonder if I should just bite that bullet while the machine isn’t performing…
lets get your bowden set up working first. I know it can do a pretty good job too when set up right.
When you cut your tube to go against the nozzle, its gotta be dead square. Rig up some kinda mitre system to cut it square. Hot plastic getting caught in a space between the nozzle and the tube can really cause all kinds of havoc.
- clear the hot end of plastic. Heat it up to 200, take off the nozzle. Push the bowden tube so it comes out the bottom where the nozzle goes on. This will clear the barrel of any stuck pla and you will know its clean. Once this is done, put a new nozzle on and snug it lightly. Then back it off one turn. Install the new straight cut tube and push it right up against the nozzle. Install the clip on the fitting then tighten up your nozzle. This will ensure there is no space between your nozzle and bowden tube.
Run the extruder calibration test in that link i sent you. My stock Esteps were a way off when it did what you are doing now… I replaced my stock extruder with an all metal once prior to going direct drive.
Consider re-installing your stock hot end. I am sticking with mine as it does such a fantastic job. If you have a winning team, why change the team? Some like the mircro swiss all metal. But just as many dont. I dont care for it at all.
Lets clear the bowden tube, install a new nozzle and check esteps. This should give us some answers.
You ok to use Pronterface??
Im sure you have checked this, but just incase I will mention it.
If your nozzle is too close to the bed, to the point where material cant really flow well, this can also cause you grief.
Measure a skirt thickness. expect to see 0.18 to 0.22 with 0.2 being the goal
Have you done a PID Tune of your hot end yet?
Took the Micro Swiss off and got the stock hot end partially tied back in. I gotta clean it a bit and I’m gonna be short on PTFE so I’ll have to pick up some more Capricorn tubing hopefully tomorrow. Then I’ll put it all back together, level, and test.
I haven’t used pronterface before but I’ll download it on my PC and familiarize myself with it.
Then fingers crossed I can clear this backlog!
I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to help me out! I sincerely appreciate it.
I’ll check back in once I have the tubing installed and hot end back together
Oh and yes material has room to flow.
If you havent done your extruder esteps with Pronterface yet, dont even try to print something till you calibrate your extruder. Again, follow that link i sent. I can guide you to a PID hot end tune later once you get up and running.
Make sure you can push that tube right thru the hot end and out where the nozzle attaches.
But lets not change a million things at once. A few a a time. Sometimes changing too much at once brings in new problems and more operational fog.
Cheers - Pronterface is a must do. You can do it. Its a right of passage
That’s a big 10-4
I’ll report back once I’ve got it put back together and calibrated with pronterface. Looking forward to getting to know that bit.
I just read this string and I have to say the advice given is outstanding. I have unplugged hot ends and the steps suggested are the ones that worked for me.
I did want to say that I have at least 1,000 hours on my microswiss direct extruder for my Creality machine with no issues at all. Yes, you need to fiddle with the stepper motor adjustment but once I got that right the direct extruder did a great job. Just wanted to put your mind at ease if you bought the microswiss product during the recent sale!
I gotta agree with you. Trinity has gone above and beyond. This forum is outstanding!
I did end up putting the stock hot end back on and it’s printing perfectly again. I have to clear a backlog of orders but then I plan to work on fine tuning and if time permits, go the direct drive route.
Thanks for your input!
Nice to see people are engaging in here
Im glad you are up and running.
Did you calibrate your extruder with Pronterface?? I really cant stress the importance of doing this enough. Must. Gotta. I hate to be a pest but this is a make or break setting.
If you didnt do this, Ill betcha a cold beer you are under extruding
So I did quick print after putting the stock hot end back and it looked just as good as ever. So I’m pushing out some orders atm.
I am absolutely going to go through the proper calibration process with pronterface as soon as Ive got some breathing room though
Lol, I will not take that bet even though the prints look great
I’ll touch base once I’ve got pronterface goin
Thank you again!!