My CR-6 SE Issue List

I like the CR-6 SE a lot “when it works”… and look forward to when I get all the bugs out…

  • changed the power switch because it failed.
  • changed to capricorn tubing because the original white tubing deformed (I usually print at 240c for PETG).
  • tighten the heat block screws because 1 of 2 fell out.
  • tighten the bed screws because they were really loose.
  • my Creality motherboard did not fail but I changed to a SKR board for peace of mind.
  • about to change the thermistor…

Welcome @kyklist !

Just a really general comment. Air freight is rough on screws. The micro vibrations of planes back screws out. Regardless of the product I often just go check screws to make sure they are tight.

The failures seem to be a part of the process. I have forgotten whom said there are two classes of printers, the hobby class like the creality that need tinkering and the others that cost more but just work, Prusa for example.

It can be very frustrating. I am fighting with an Artillery.

Then there are industrial printers. usually starting around $7-10K.

I cant afford $7 - $10K.

While waiting for CR6 parts I picked up a FLSun QQ-S

For ~$1K excluding taxes I now have 2 working printers :slight_smile:

Nice. I’m starting to think 3d printing is a good idea. So maybe more redundancy for us too in The future

Update: After fixing a number of issues my CR-6 SE it is now running really well : silent and smooth with very good prints.

my experience is these are all hobby printer. Nothing but pain to fix and learn as you go.
so if you have some computer, mechanical and electrical skills you are good to go or else buy expensive industrial printer.

Or just get someone to print what ever it is for you.

Good point, that a good option.

Prusa is between industrials and the printers that are a hobby of fiddling with it rather than using it. I built mine and it was flawless once done a friend ordered his and it was perfect from first print. no messing about. The three other printers have many hours for fiddling and make worse prints. The artillery after all the parts and fiddling (3 months of fiddling) cost more than an assembled Prusa and can’t print the sunshine engine benchmark. The prusa does at 0.2 no issues it is perfect the first time.

What the heck is a “sunshine engine benchmark”?

Scratch that. I just googled it. That will be my next print. I was confused initially by trying to figure out what a “sunshine engine” is :slight_smile:

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lol my bad.

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It came out reasonably well. Thanks for pointing it out.
Sunshine Engine-400


Hmmmm. Seems to me the heat block screws are problematic (see my CR-6 is cranky topic). both of mine had to be reinstalled.

I found out about the bed screws and it is a good thing because it installed the magnetic printing plate on my unit.

Have you changed you motherboard yet?

Yes I did change my motherboard. My original did not burn out but I did not feel comfortable about the reputation of them burning out. I went with the BTT SKR CR6 board. It came with Creality firmaware which worked but I took another step and installed Community Firmware available on GitHub.

I had many loose screws ( heat bed, heat block, y stepper motor, etc…) and some part failures (power switch, filament tube end melted (i print PETG at 240C) and the heat sensor in the heat block).

After all these issues fixed my CR6 prints really really well (knock on wood).

For the CR-6 3DPC sells 2 replacement motherboards

  • Creality v4.5.2 for $120 ( the version that has a burning reputation…)
  • BTT SKR CR6 1.0 for $80 (works with Creality or the open source Community firmware version,

The SKR CR6 works with the original CR6 screen or you can use larger BTT screens.
With the SKR CR6 board the Z endstop LED does not come on but the detection works fine.

Note: Creality has v4.5.3 that apparently the burning issue is fixed. They may also have another board but I did not bother to check as the SKR CR6 board works well.