Wow that look great! I can see that your bltouch has been working wonders for you.
I have always preferred PEI plates over the stock glass ones, they seem to perform more consistently for me anyways.
Matthew
Thanks Matthew…!
Really good investment to get Bl touch 
Btw, do you think i should keep the auto levelling on before every print or do it only when i see levelling issues? Currently I set my gcode machine settings with ‘M420 S1 Z10’ after the G28 line, this I practice when using the Inductive sensor…
Hi all,
Is it necessary to do XY offset after installing the BLtouch? I am not familiar with editing Marlin/Arduino.
I’ve already got my XY offset figures but trying to avoid editing the .ino files and reupload the f/w. I was hoping to get away by editing it within Cura5.3.
Question:
I downloaded “10SPro_BLT_BIL_DW7.4.6.hex” only… it didn’t come with the Marlin .ino files. Which marlin.ino file i should edit using the ‘arduino-ide_2.1.0_Windows_64bit’ software?
Help is much appreciated! TQ in advance…
HI @Joehunt
Its really a matter of pref, If you are confident you do not jiggle the bed when removing prints using the M420 is perfectly acceptable to speed up SOP time.
If you need to hit it with a scraper to get the last print off (generally) I would just use a G29.
You can also set the offset with an M851. You can add this through Pronterface and use the M500 to save the changes. If the firmware is fairly new the 851 option should be on.
Hi Jason,
Noted on the M420 script to speed up SOP time. I’ll stick to this for now.
As for the XY offset for bltouch, let me read through the article for M851 via pronterface. This sounds much easier to manage i hope!
haha! I found out the f/w on my printer has this motion setup function. Ez Pz 
Hey there,
That is somewhat dependent of preference and the printer. Some printers have worse bed warping issues than others do, in which case it would be a good idea to level before every print. If your bed doesn’t warp too bad you can usually level it every once and a while and it will stay decently consistent. Most of my machines with bed leveling don’t suffer from the bed warping too bad so I usually just leave it until I notice something looks a bit off, I do watch every one of my first layers go down so if something looks odd I just stop the print and level the bed.
I do have a couple of printers that suffer from some intermittent bed warping issues, for those printers I just have the bed leveling sequence run at the beginning of every print. It just helps to eliminate error within your prints.
Ultimately what I would recommend to you would be to try turning it off and see how your prints go, if you find you are having issues just turn it back on again!
Thanks,
Matthew
Hi Matthew,
It’s always frustrating to see 1st layer not sticking well… for some simple parts it’s not so obvious but when u start printing bed level calibration for example, i started to see some lines not sticking or peeling off etc. I thought it was my cura settings and all… until i found out PEI sheets needs 65-70c hot bed… i was just running it at 50~55c! Anyways then i stumbled upon XY offset adjustment for BLTouch, so that’s done and now let’s see how it goes with 70c hotbed 
This is a great point!
I struggled with that as well when I first started using PEI sheets, I too found that pumping the temp helped a bit. For most filament I add ~ 10C to what was previously being used (70 for PLA, 95 for PETG). But for some filaments like ABS or nylon I will add ~20C to the bed, only because it helps to prevent them from warping as rapidly as they may have otherwise.
Thanks,
Matthew
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Noticed your comment about adding a little temp when using a PEI sheet. That is interesting. I will try that. I am only 3 months old to 3D Printing but one thing I did notice in my printing, I rarely have an adhesion issue using 60 degrees on my CR-10 Smart Pro and PEI bed. If I do, I use Windex and then Isopropyl Alcohol 99% pure to remove any Windex residue. The cleaning is frequent, every 2 or 3 prints. Each time I have had an adhesion issue and clean as mentioned above, it sticks again with 60 degrees bed. I will however play with 70 degrees for the sake of learning something. I have recognized that the first layer thickness is key to bed adhesion. After manual leveling, Z offset and auto leveling the bed, I watch the brim to ensure layer thickness for adhesion and for ensuring a level bed after leveling. The Brim is my best friend.
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I learned now when i choose the smooth pei surface, i make sure i clean the surface 1st. Thin hairline from my cat fur will leave a mark on your smooth shiny printer surface! 
So far with 70c hotbed, i no longer need brim, except for small delicate tiny parts especially when i’m running super quality 0.12mm layer thickness.
I suggest you try and print the bed level calibration part from Cura’s plugin… It has long vertical and horizontal lines… When i was running 55-60c hotbed, the hotend goes back along the thin printed path and it actually pushed and peeled the 1st layer. With 70c it sticks very well. Just wait till the hotbed cools down to 40+c, it would pop out so easily
Thanks I will make the switch to 70 today.
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