I am using an Ender 3 S1 with Creality sprite hotend upgrade, I contacted support because I was having issues trying to print with Petg filament for the first time. This was the response I received from Tiago “Our brand PETG printing has shown excellent results when using a nozzle temperature of 235-245o.C, bed temperature of 85o.C, and fan at 60%. If your prints are too stringy (webs), we recommend drying the spool for 2-4 hours at 60o.C in a spool dryer prior to printing. I found that the perfect Fan for our PETG filament is 60% on the Ender-S1 and S1 Pro, CR-10 Smart and Smart Pro and Ender-6.”
I chose a bed temp of 85 c and nozzle temp of 240 c, fan 60% and have had 4 successful prints so far.
Thanks Tiago for the recommendations.
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I print far more PETg than anything else. ASA and PLA not as frequently. I usually use 230ºF for the first layer and 240ºF for the rest. 85ºF on the bed for the first layer and 90ºF for the rest.
PETg is hydroscopic, dry filament is important. I always keep in a sealed bag as much as possible, I rarely have moisture issues even in my room that sits at 60% RH most of the time. (RH is a terrible measurement, it is linked to air temp that is not part of RH, so 17 grams of water per square meter)
I don’t usually get much or any stringing. I find Petg is very sensitive to nozzle condition. A nozzle needs to be in good shape.
It is a great material softer than PLA harder than nylon, with good chemical resistance.
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Thanks for the reply, I’m going to give your settings a try to see how that works on my printer. Do you have any recommendations for the house pla+ filament?
PLA+ is slippery. It is a grab bag term that no longer means anything. Originally it referred to a specific material 850 or 860. Then PHA arrived. If it isn’t specifically listed as different and exactly what is different. Something like made with polyhydroxyalkanoate or INGEO 3D850 it is just marketing. Same can be said for pro.
There is so much marketing foolery it is hard to know what exactly is different, unless it is spaced differently. If a company is using something that actually is different they will exactly describe it. If it is some ‘weasel words’ a custom blend of PLA and ABS… it is just words. (PLA and ABS don’t blend but I have seen it listed as such.)
Decide what properties you need and then buy a material that does what you need. Don’t fall into plus is better just because some marketeer says so.
I would always recommend any material that is wound well. I will attach some pictures. Any company whom has clean perfect windings has a well tuned perfect runs likely that will translate to dimensionally stable and clean dust free filament. One that is hap hazard shows a run not well tuned and that makes me question what else is wrong.
It is similar to a band in their set up notes saying they want M&Ms in the dressing room but to pick all the brown ones out. If they find brown M&Ms it shows they did not or would not follow instructions carefully so every other spec needs to be carefully checked. Same for spools.
Poorly rolled doesn’t make it bad but it to me is a sign to be careful.
Not well rolled 'premium" (what does premium mean? I don’t know, more inflated price?)
Cheap filament well rolled.
Expensive filament well rolled.
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The thing to remember is the plastic itself is not anywhere near the price we pay. The machines to create filament are expensive but not crazy. The part that we are really paying for is the skill of the operators. Poorly coiled rolls do not demonstrate a high skill level.
Prusament is fantastic. Colorfabb PHA is really good too. Matter3D 850 (I think they call it performance) is too. Not as perfectly rolled asI would expect from a pricey filament.
Thanks for the reply and shedding some light on this subject
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