What do you use for bed adhesion when printing with PETG on the stock bed? I just got my CR6 se afew days ago and have only printed PLA so far. Can you print PETG directly onto the stock bed without damaging it?
I have done many PETG prints on the stock glass bed, coated side up, with glue stick and a 75C bed temperature. I clean the bed with 50/50 water/vinegar after every print. I have not had any issues, but some people have had the coating come off.
You could flip the glass over and use the uncoated side with glue stick.
I’m in similar boat to @GeerGuy.
On My CR-6 SE , I use smooth side with Elmer’s Purple water washable Glue stick.
I use it like that for PET-G ABS, PLA, TPU95A
i ordered magnetic bed because glass is a pain in neck
I use like four layers of glue stick the purple one I only use purple glue stick it seems to work the best or you can use Elmer’s glue all and mix it 50/50 but then it really sticks to the bed make sure you use multiple layer so you don’t pull chunks of glass off if you’re using glass
I just tried a test print using blue painters tape on the smooth side of the glass. Seems to work good.
Hear-hear! (or is it, here-here?)
I did a few PETG prints, on the coated bed at 80C / 225C but without glue, and it worked fine.
After a lot of work i came to know now how to work with PETG.
- i have BLtouch, set your level and adjust z offset any time you make any change in filament.
- i started from 0/40/50/60/70/80 degree and 85 was a right temp on bed.
- for nozzle i stated 200/210/220/230/240/250/260 and it worked at 265 finally.
- i used business card thickness to have nozzle gap setting not A4 paper its too thin PETG.
- i used my glass bed smooth side on Ender V2 and it sticks perfect no issues at all.
- after every print i use IPA 99% to clean the smooth side of bed to get rid of finger prints.
- Have lots of patience if you don’t want blue tape, or hair spray or any other ideas.
I find petg is the exact same as pla minus only using 40% fan 60 to 80 bed 220/260 nozzle and test prints to dial filament also I just load the purple glue stick on there for five layers and good to go wash it off apply again or just keep applying like pla if you want to smooth bottom layer just wash it off every time and reapply
My problem with painter tape has it has wax and this thing was not sticking to it.
honestly Elmer’s purple washable glue stick the actual glue stick itself is purple using like three to four layers of that works wonderful for bed adhesion I’ve never had a problem this way
Often I need nothing but using a glue stick makes it more consistently reliable. I also use “brims” out of habit or very occasional a “raft”.
I learned on Glass bed. i found that Blue water wash glue stick does good job.
Just need to find right temperature.
I purchased the magnetic print sheet as an add-on when I got my CR6. Its rough surface first suprised and worried me but after using it I was very happy with the results.
No need for glue of tape.
And I find that when I have an adhesion problem, it’s not the printer nor the material, it’s the noob (me) who did something wrong, like, not using a brim or raft.
You can’t go wrong with blue painter’s tape. no glue is needed. Worst case the painter tape may come off with your print. Then you just remove the tape from the print. Plus it is by far the best way for ABS and TPU