Pla only sticking to parts of bed

Ill have to try that. The bed and printer are not that old. I moved my z down a tad bit and worked on one print but didnt stuck on another.

You are far more experienced then I.

I only use PLA for most things and PETG when I need a little more strength. That said, my PEI bed is extensively used almost all day every day since new in November and still as pristine as it was new.

I think that because I remove any Window Cleaner residue with Alcohol every time that maybe the risk is even less but the sticking issue is none existent for me as long as the bed is clean.

Enjoying chatting with you about this.

Are you leveling at the beginning of each print. I noticed Cura may do this and I am not a fan of that. I feel auto leveling each print is not as good as it would seem.

Instead when I feel I need to level my machine I manually level, adjust Z offset and then one time auto level as usual. After that, I watch the brim at the beginning of each print and adjust the wheels of the bed to keep it at a perfect level every print. More often then not I do not need to do anything. I may do a full level again every month or so and even then maybe not.

Printing a bed leveling print is great for adjusting the bed as well after a full leveling.

Also temp tests and speed tests are a must for each different brand and kind of filament.

Why would you say that auto leveling at the start of each print isn’t optimal?

I’ve changed all my printers to fixed bed and an autolevel at the start of each print is a staple of the operation with no issues. I first saw it on my Voron 2.4 and I’ve really liked it ever since.

I auto level every print too, every printer but the deltas they are non moving beds they are different.

The OP I would look at if the bed is trammed (so called level but in reality it isn’t level so much are parallel to the nozzle motion.) Warped (if it is not flat ish you will have issues) and the z height is correct. I don’t think your principal issue is adhesion.

Typically it is likely a combination of all of these.

I brought thr nozzle closer on my last print but i put a brim on it. Im gonna try some print without the brim this weekend and do toger small adjuatments this weekend

Did the print stick better? If so it is absolutely z height. The piece of paper is super imprecise! I would suggest a low quality business card. Not that is better. Live z works well if you have that functionality

It did stick better. I did a test square and 2 corners warped up but turned the heat down slightly and the next time it was better.

What would cause part of it looking good and others looking bad?

It looks like the nozzle is too close on that corner. It happens when the nozzle digs into the surface of the print.

You may have a bed that is not parallel to the gantry and needs “leveling “ correctly called tramming level really has nothing to do with it.

It could also be the bed has a high spot. Sometimes it is an extreme high spot and needs to be replaced. A straight edge (side of a metal ruler or hey a level would work too!) to see if there is a dip or height spot. If it is bigger than a dime thickness it needs replacing.

Oh make sure there is nothing between the pei sheet and bed. It sometimes happens a bit of stray filament gets between and causes mayhem

Ok thank you. Ill check that when i get home.

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On my CR10 Smart Pro I found that an auto level every print slowly causes a percentage of error that compounds and I need to manually level more often then if I do not let the software keep checking the level. I am qualified in Calibration which gives me an understanding of what can happen there. I consider leveling to be a calibration of the machine and basically it is. At first I did not level each print since I use Creality Slicer and not Cura and after a couple of months of very little need to level the printer, I checked out Cura which added the leveling at the beginning of each print. I thought this to be a great idea and added it to the beginning of every print. It did not take long for me to notice an increased need to do a complete leveling of the printer at a rate that was far more frequent then when I did not level every print. Considering the increased frequency to do a full leveling to be related to the leveling at each print I stopped doing so. My minimal need to level returned to normal and I now do not level each print and my printer is happier for it.

Maybe some printers will like to level every print and some may not who knows.

When you level the printer manually do you keep doing all four corners continuously until you can check each corner without the need for an adjustment. If you have to adjust any corner for the paper feel of friction, you then need to repeat all four corners since an adjustment to one corner can affect a different corner. Not until you can check the four corners repeatedly with no need of adjustment are you done.

After that I personally love using a brim to see how the level is performing. If the brim seems to start a bit of a wave in one area like it is squeezing out the sides, the nozzle is to close to the bed at that point and I adjust that corner a little to drop the bed for a little more space to nozzle. If the bead seems to not bind to the bead next to it the nozzle is to high in that area and I adjust the bed in that corner to make the nozzle closer.

If one area of the brim is not quite correct you need to adjust the respective bed corner, if the entire brim is unhappy that is a Z adjustment. Corner adjustments are needed when just a local area is not happy and Z adjustments are need when the whole brim needs adjustment.

That should not be happening. 4 of my printers have ABL aside from the big delta they all do a grid before starting. This keeps the bed constant and corrects any errors.

If you need to print a brim to check the state of automatic leveling that also indicates an issue. Once I got my X1 springs and a bed that is actually flat. I only relieved every handful of months. You should not be needing adjustment regularly.

Can I ask what does it mean when you say you are “qualified in Calibration”? I’m also curious to know why you’re calling out the slicers as they should have nothing to do with leveling.

Regardless, if you have a situation where errors build up after each leveling operation, it sounds like something isn’t architected right in terms of the sensors and/or the process.

Cura is an excellent slicer and my only comment is it adds leveling to the beginning of prints and I had trouble with that.

I’m curious as to what the problem you had with always leveling at the start of a print.

As I said above, I do that every time on all my printers without any problems or with tolerance building up (which you implied happen in your situation).