I’ve been having no end of trouble with my mesh on this printer. After trying several other possible solutions, I found that my rear Z lead screw has about 5mm of vertical play. I believe I can get rid of the slop if i loosen the grub screws on the collet and slide it up to the spacer (?). I’m unsure of the best way to get at it though.
You shouldn’t have to adjust any of the lead screws or pulleys on the printer.
Would you mind expanding a bit on what problems you are having with the bed mesh? There may be something else going on that will be a better fix than adjusting all of these.
Matt
Hi Matt. My K1 Max is rooted. I’ve tried running it with KAMP and without, but I get a different mesh nearly every time I run it. Sometimes its cupped, and sometimes its bowed. The mesh will show the high and low spots, but the nozzle will just run high over the lows and vice versa as if the mesh isn’t being taken into account at all.
There is a grub screw on that 2-step pulley, It needs to be tightened to eliminate the play. Have you tried their tutorial-> https://youtu.be/CsIAJgCAxFM?si=S4hsOhVZOT6qbZ82 ?
There are two grub screws on the pulley, and they are tight. Yes, I’ve done the tutorial, but it has nothing to do with the autolevel mesh issue.
It appears that you have two different meshes. Despite the fact that the heated beds are not machined flat, a range of 0.4 is quite decent. As for the 2-step pulley, it seems to be keeping the z-leadscrew in place. You can adjust the pulley to eliminate the looseness of the leadscrew.
I’m not concerned with the range. I’m concerned with the fact that I get a very different mesh from print to print, and that the machine does not appear to apply that mesh to the print.
A lead screw could cause a change in the slant of a bed never cupping or bowing.
I agree. I was expanding on my mesh issues as requested by Matthew.
Are you keeping them at a consistent bed/ nozzle temperature between tests? It almost looks to me like a cold bed vs. a hot bed.