it only prints halfway and then complete like it finished. Looking at the image in cura after sliceing it show the part where it stops printing in Red. I read that it is either a overhang or some other error I have not figured out how to correct this. does anyone have any advice hot to fix this. I may try another slicer. but just thought if I can find a solution it would help me understand if i come across this again.
Msav, I ran it through Creality Slicer 4.8, and I can see some of the holes and other cut out features probably want supports - I re-layed out both the 9 and the 12 round parts on one build plate so if you’re laying them flat on their long edges, that may give different results.
I can’t run any tests for you - I’ve got a 3 day print job setup right now after all that fighting with my tramming and such, and I’ve only got the one CR10 Smart Pro myself.
I pulled the 9 round parts in, and this is what I got in Prusaslicer after slicing - no errors detected.
As I don’t know what you mean by half way… I’m just guessing. Note the colour coding in PrusaSlicer - kinda nice to know where you’re spending time, and expending filament…
Anywho, time for bed… Probably won’t check in again until late Sunday night or Monday.
I am printing them one part at a time laying flat like in you prusaslicer image. parts marked orange in you image are the parts it does not print.
Both creality slicer and cura both show it the same. (does not surprise me since they are pretty much the same.
I did not want to print them upright, Like I said I am new to this and it seems like there is more to go wrong, plus with the added supports that are probably needed.
My prints with Ideamaker look like they are coming out correct, I had a slight goof where I thought it was printing then when looking at it more closely notice the print head was about an inch off the print, discovered i was near the end of the roll and the filament was wedged too tightly together so the extruder could not pull it out. I just threw on a 2nd spool and started it again. Will probably rewind what is left on the spool and use it for another project.
Thanks for the effort in doing all of this. I am not even sure this thing will work, but that is what this hobby is all about.
I did print this Dragon lamp, it it came out well really happy with it.
Heh. Cool. That lamp is all over Tumblr’s ad system. Interesting looking I admit. I have plans to make sone garden art out of server rack panels and my liquid metal glue gun… not immediate of course but I have plans…
I got it printed out. however for some reason some of the spots that were suppose to be notched were not. I had to do some post processing cuts to make the notches. I had one half of it start peeling off the bed about 8 hours into the print. some fast acting with my trusty 3d pen I was able to squirt some mounting blobs where it was peeling up and pushed it back onto the bed, it saved the print. Just had to cut them off after the print was done. most of the just snapped off and did not leave any spots on it.
back in the day I was donated 5 server racks from my job and I made a shed out of the panels. Used the server mounting brackets to make the trusses for the roof. When I moved I gave it to a friend and they loaded it up on a tow truck and hauled it 8 miles and it did not even budge. I miss that shed. LOL
I’m thinking of keeping a glue gun nearby, seems that’s a tried and true solution for some. I don’t have the 3d pen in my arsenal as yet.
Odd the notches didn’t print. They do seem to be in the STL.
The notches for the clips started to print with the base layer. I saw them. However I think I had my nozzle temp too high and it just melted through. That is what I think happened with the follower. the entire notch was filled in but it was not as dense. I had the temp at 220. I really should have had them at 200.
I normally start the prints at 200 for the first layer and drop them to 205 after the first layer, however I got distracted with other things and forgot to do it, and somehow thought I had done it already.
3d pen is good as it uses the same filament as the printer and if you use the same color it is not really noticeable if there is is some that mixes in. it is also awesome for fusing parts together instead of super glue.
220? Oof. I find 210 is my optimal for pla and pla+. 200 tends to be a bit iffy in my house.
I also run my bed at 65 along with the gluestick treatment to the PEI plate. Most things won’t curl. Some will. Still dialing in my skirt/brim settings. I find rafts brutal to remove the few times I have tied them.
