Questions about orienting models for resin 3D printing

Hi all, I’m new to 3D printing in resin and have a few questions about optimal build plate positioning when preparing models to be sliced for printing.

  • I’ve seen people on YouTube preparing their resin models at a 45 degree angle instead of straight up and down, similar to in the below image. What is the reason for this (other than printing faster the model faster)?

  • If a model is printable without supports on an FDM printer, is it true that the same model will be printable without supports in resin as well?

  • What might cause a model to come detached from the print bed during printing?

I had my first failed resin print yesterday, where the model detached from the bed/got stuck to the bottom of the vat half way through, and I was wondering how I can best prevent mishaps like that going forward. Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

I don’t have a resin printer but I think the 45° thing is mostly to optimize drainage. It’s easy to trap too much resin inside a model making it heavy and causing it to detach. You could potentially make a bowl full of resin and leave very little inside the tank. I don;t think speed has anything to do with it as resin printers harden a whole layer at once so the more layers the more time. an object are 45° will mostly likely increase layers as it would be relatively taller.

Supports work backward on resin printers as gravity is pulling away from the bed/Support the part is being built on.

I don’t know how your print would have come detached. maybe it was full of resin? maybe it cured for too long and stuck to the film at the bottom?

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My understanding is that the slicers work best at certain angles before placing supports for the object being printed. Have seen reference to 30, 45 & 60 degree angles. Do not want to mislead anyone as I am only a beginner in this field.
There is an optimum angle before supports are required or placed by the software to support the model. If not done properly the model will sag & become distorted, thus useless with wasted material & time.
I for one need to read up on this and defer this to the people with lots of experience.

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@Glenn: That’s an interesting point you make. On a non-resin printer you would use infill to reduce material used and increase print speed, but on a resin printer those voids would just be filled with resin, wouldn’t they? If I’m correct, I wonder if that sets a practical size limit to resin printers in so far as there will come a point where the model becomes so heavy (either with 100% infill or trapped resin) that it pulls free from the build plate. That may explain why I’ve never seen a large resin printer.

They probably have infills they can use that more more like scaffolds than walls as long as the lowest point has a drain hole it should work. I read a lot about them because I thought my first printer was going to be an Elegoo Saturn

Prussa slicer has an option to optimize the orientation, and then save an .stl fileof this orientation for your favourite slicer. If you need more info cantact me.


i am thinking to make first print once i get a printer. I will see what is going on but i also noticed that angle makes a big difference.

The angle does make a difference in the size of each individual slice, smaller the better.


In Chitubox you can hollow out large areas and punch drain holes to get rid of resin.


Thanks for the info! I’m going to give Prusa Slicer a try :slight_smile:


watch this video on setting the proper angle if you want no visible layer lines… How to Angle your Resin Print for the Smoothest Surface Possible. Real life use of trigonometry! - YouTube