Replacing 4.2.2 board with 4.2.7 question about firmware options

the significant difference is the screen, I do not believe the Jyers firmware will work with the old-style RepRap screens, It will technically operate the board but the screen will sit there blank. (Yes I’ve tried it, I bought a new style screen because of it.)

Sorry I missed the fact you were running a V1 printer.

The E3 printers are rock solid they make up about 95% of my personal print farm.

I also will echo that the modding printer bug will bite hard if you start, :slight_smile:

seriously though it’s a lot of fun and it’s also how I ended up with about a $2K ender 3 pro. There is a reason I have made it a rule that anything on the print farm does not get modded except Bowden tube, fittings and nozzles.

I have to say I have no regrets for having upgraded the motherboard, even though I kind of forced myself to have to after burning out the stock board. I can’t believe how much more quiet it is! It’s night and day. I hope to not do too many mods but… is there any reason updating the screen could be dangerous? Again, I’m not planning to run out tomorrow to do it but it does seem like the Jyers firmware is more reliable than the creality firmware (which is kind of funny…).

And so far the BLTouch seems to be worth it. Aside from it leading to me burning our the stock board and all these questions about firmware :wink:

I have also changed the springs and the nozzle… but that’s it… so far… oh… i also printed a few things for it like the tool holder and fan cover…

Glad to hear your printer is working now! If you want to make it even quieter, replace all the axial fans on the printer with noctua fans. 4010s for the hotend and main board, and a 8020 for the power supply(that’s what I did anyway, it requires a different front panel on the power supply though, which is on thingiverse). I will admit though, replacing fans was where the modding bug first latched on to me, and hasn’t really relaxed its grip since. :grin: But seriously, if you replace the fans, for whatever reason, be it for noise reasons(and the noctua fans really are very very quiet) or because a fan gave out, buy noctua. When I bought my first ender 3(almost 3.5 years ago) within a year(quite a bit less I think) at least one of the Creality fans started having issues. I replaced all of the 4010 fans while I was at it, and since then, those fans haven’t faltered once. They do cost a fair bit more, but are worth every penny. End of long discourse! :face_with_hand_over_mouth:

I will make note of that for the fans. For now I am enjoying the silence of the movement but I would be lying if I said I hadn’t already wondered how much quieter I could make the fans.

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Be careful about using Noctura fans on the hot end. They don’t necessarily have as much cooling action (generally lower speed and less air movement) as the stock unreliable noisy fans that come with the printer and that can lead to heat creep on the heat break. There are some 24 V fans (this eliminates the need for buck converters to reduce the voltage to 12v for the Noctura fans) that are not as quiet as the Noctrua ones but better then the stock ones, they might cool better. I did replace the stock 4010 Power supply and Mother board fans on my E3V2 with 92MM Noctura fans because the increased size gives much more cooling effect and the are super quiet. Changing out the hot end casing and adding new quieter fans to it is my next project. Some people have replaced the hot end fans with Noctura 4020 fans and say they get better air flow and cooling, I am not knowledgeable i this area.

P.S. watch this video, he explains what I was talking about better then I can. This is his informed opinion and how accurate it is I can’t say.

The video is okay, but what I don’t like about it is that it doesn’t discuss duct design and focuses too much on the narrator’s experience as an IT tech when selecting fans.

Before you buy any fan, there should be a manufacturer’s datasheet with a CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rating for the fan. Along with that, you should be able to find user reviews of the fans and their longevity - that’s a lot more useful than using the same brand of fans as is popular with PC gamers.

For a 4010, the best I’ve found is Aimsoar with 7.5 to 8 CFM. The datasheet above is from them. The fans are also pretty quiet - a few fan manufacturers also have noise specifications as part of their datasheet. I did do a bit of experimentation and the CFM ratings seem to be accurate relative to each other - for example I have some 4.5-5 CFM 4010s and the airflow is noticeably less than the Aimsoars.

With a bit of understanding about cooling flow, you can get adequate cooling with a relatively low power (low CFM) fan - the trick is to make sure that the cross section of the exit is at least equal to the cross section of the inlet (ie the fan diameter multiplied by pi) and it is directly from the fan and what you want to cool.

The stock Creality Ender 3 hot end/duct/cover design is terrible because air doesn’t naturally flow around the heatsink and the exhaust openings are a lot smaller than the inlet. I know the gantry wheel mounting is behind the heatsink which makes passing air out the back difficult, but there are openings only on one side and that’s where most people put their BL Touch.

Personally, I’ve been using hot ends with an open front and a 3010 fan behind - maybe not fashionable, but I never worry about heat sink cooling or heat creep.

Dunno, I use the 4010 noctua fans on the hotend and it has worked for me. Granted, I am not using an all metal hotend, and mostly I print pla at 200, with a bit of TPU and PETG at 230-240 on the side. I am sure that helps reduce the cooling requirements. For the first while I had the noctuas on the stock Creality shroud, but for the last 2 years or so, I have been running the petsfang hotend shroud and part cooling fan duct, which definitely has better air flow than the Creality one, as mykepredko mentioned. Oh, and the Ender 3V2 only has a 4010 fan on the power supply? The meanwell PSU that the E3Pro has comes with a 6015. The 6015 is a little more than needed, as the thermostat didn’t have it on full time, but 4010 sure seems underpowered.

The cooling fan AND the power supply cover suck. The vent holes are partially covered for some reason and blocks the cooling air. That is the big reason I changed my cover and fan. I found a nice set of 92MM fan covers on Thingaverse and they fit perfectly. Going from 4010 to 92MM without the stock cover really helped. Excess cooling for the PW and the MB.

As far as hot end cooling, the stock cooling is at a minimum acceptable so whatever you do it has to be better.

This is all very educational! I have no personal experience to add to it but appreciate the info and insight!

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Have you solved this issue? I upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to the 4.2.7. with v2 screen, CRtouch and dual z axis. It seems to work until I try to auto bed level and then it act like it’s starved for power.

I did. I ended up just using the Creality firmware since the jyers firmware doesn’t work with the older screen. It’s not running slowly at all. I’m not sure I am 100% happy with the print quality yet but I don’t think that’s to do with the bl touch.

Other than possibly giving you better first layers a BL Touch won’t affect your print quality.

Yeah, though maybe indirectly? I did do an update with firmware that seems less than popular (the creality firmware) in order to get the BL Touch running. I suppose something could be off with that.

Either way I am still fine tuning but never experienced what @Jobe8302 did. It sounds like you have a pretty different setup than I do though @Jobe8302 so it wouldn’t be an apples to apples comparison anyway.

This may be a bit late but why did you upgrade the 4.2.2 to the 4.2.7 MB. Was there a problem.

I fried my board trying to add the BL Touch so I needed a new one.

After several nights of staying up late just so I can get Creality Support on FB to assist with my issue, they finally came to the conclusion that I needed the E3 v2 firmware. It definitely runs a lot smoother and the motors move quicker when auto home. After trying all that they came to the conclusion that my CRtouch must be bad. They are mailing me a new one since mine never worked since installation 2 weeks ago.

Basically my 2019 model E3 Pro is now a E3 v2 neo without the actual look of the neo. All I need to add is the adjustable belt tensioners.

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With a 4.2.7 MB and an Ender 3V2 display you also have a option to use the Jyers UI, from Github, firmware (appropriate version) which has many improvements over the stock firmware, support for ABL’s, bed levelling using an ABL, generating a bed level matrix and upgraded display functionality

I hope the new one solves the problem for you!

It’s on my radar, just not in my budget right now. Someday tho!

@Loosenut I’ve tried finding Jyers zip file but all I seem to download is the bin file and not the screen files. Either I don’t have the right file link or my computer just doesn’t let me download the ones from github. The reason I say this is because Creality had to email me the zip file. Every time I downloaded it all that showed up was the main board bin file.

@momewrath Thank you! I hope so too. I have my two E3 max Neo’s to keep printing but I’m trying to set the v2 up from fine detail prints with a 0.2 nozzle.