Sakata 850 Settings for MK3S?

Good Day All!

I just bought a roll of Sakata 850 and am trying to complete my first print (with Prusa MK3S).

Anyone using this product care to share settings with me? My standard PLA settings do not work at all… then I bumped up the extruder temp (to 230) and the nozzle seems to have jammed after several hours of printing.

Thanks in advance!

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When you say it does not work at all, it would be more helpful if you described what it was actually doing. Is filament not coming out? Is it coming out but not sticking to the bed? Is it stringing like crazy? etc. etc.

Fair enough!
At 200 degrees the filament barely flows. Spotty at best.
At 230 degrees the filament flows properly for an hour or so and then it stops flowing. The printer obviously continues it’s build path, but no layers are put down.
I am currently watching another failed print at 240 degrees. Again the object started printing but filament flow seemed to stop after an hour or 2.

If I switch back to another filament that I use regularly and return to standard settings for THAT filament these same prints work flawlessly. So I’m fairly certain I have not calibrated my MK3S for this filament but I am at a loss for what I must change.

Looking for general settings from anyone who may be using this Filament with a Prusa MK3S. I don’t mind dialing in on my own.

I’m not familiar with Sakata 850, so while we wait to see if someone with more experience jumps in, I’ll make the following general suggestions:

My first thought was that you had a clog. I’ve had that when the hotend is too hot and a glob of molten filament gets retracted back into the Bowden tube where it solidifies, but 200->230 isn’t that much of a jump in temperature. I’ve only experienced this with a roll I had that was labelled for 260C when in fact it printed just fine at 190C.

Now, you said you switched back to another filament… did you have any trouble removing the Sakata when you did that?

Does the Sakata move through the Bowden tube easily? I’m wondering if maybe it’s slightly too wide or oval?

Another possibility is that it’s too hard, such that the extruder can’t bite into it for a good grip

Sakata 850 Seems to be pigment dependent.

Whites and light Greys are okay at 200-210C.
Bold colours are 230C ish.
Dark purple and blue, black are 240-245C

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Just an update here folks… for anyone reviewing this in the future.
I am successfully printing the Sakata 850 at 210-215 degrees on my Prusa MK3S.

The issue seems to be a bad Retraction Distance setting (way too big). I suspect the filament was cooling too much in the bowden tube and then jamning outside the nozzle.

Thanks for the support.

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I’ve stop using Sakata with my MK3S because I always got issues that I never had with generic 3d printing Canada PLA. I’ve tried all temp all settings and even write to Sakata directly but first layer are allways difficult if there’s details in print and clogging that never happens with generic…

What saver are you using. With a Prusa use purse slicer, you will need it anyway for firmware updates. The 0.8 retraction (default) works well with almost everything. If you are finding stringing badly check the nozzle worn nozzles string way worse. Change the nozzle rather than settings.

I have not used the Sakata filament. Some of the filaments I have used from china were not awesome. I tend to avoid them these days. There are tons of options.

Did you convert the Prusa to a bowden tube set up?

Or did you mean the guide tube inside the extruder? Did you get it in upside down? if so filaments with a arc will jam there, or if you cut it too short and didn’t shape the end correctly.

The MK3S+ has a different shape and length better now I converted mine. The top is a funnel shape.

Sorry about the late reply but I just saw this and thought I would share for future users. I have been 3D printing daily for 4 years now and have 9 printers and lots of experience with this filament.

My Experience with Sakata 850 filament has been a love/hate relationship. I love the quality that it prints when you can get it to print without jams. But hate the fact that it will often plug the hot end or bowden tube end. I have used the black, white, silver and grey.

First of all i found that this filament does not play well with others. If you have been using another type of filament you are best off to change your nozzle and trim the last 2mm or so of your bowden tube when going to a Sakata filament. No amount of purging seems to clear the old filament enough that it will not plug up the hot end and last 2mm of the bowden tube eventually. And no leakage between the nozzle and bowden tube is crucial for this filament.

I have run this in my Ender 3’s and Tevo Tornado at no lower than 215 degrees and a bed of around 55-60 to ensure adhesion. My retraction for this filament needs to be around 5mm (no more) at 25mm/s retract speed. This way I can usually get successful prints. However due to the higher print temps, and bed temps it is poor for very fine model detail and can sometimes curl a the edges on a large print. Magigoo is answer here!

I have had much better luck printing it with direct drive extruders such as on my Creality CP-01 or converted Ender 3 with direct drives. These do not seem to jamb ever.

I have way better luck using the Standard PLA or the Euro Style PLA sold here and try to avoid Sakata use where I can as it is just too fussy. Also removing supports is almost impossible compared to 3D Printing Canada’s Standard or Euro PLA. If you have to have a lot of supports, avoid this filament.

Welcome.

Interesting review. I haven’t tried this filament yet. I’ve only tried the Sakata Wood (Maple) and absolutely loved it. I might just try the Sakata 850 just out of curiosity to see if I get the same problems.

I’m currently printing roll #3 of 3DPCs Orange Value filament. The first two went beautifully but this current one is borderline. I’ve already changed the nozzle and Bowden tube following a jam. Mind you, I’m going right from one roll of value Orange to another, so it’s not like I’m mixing anything.

Moral of the story is that filament quality control seems to be an imperfect art.