Sorry about the late reply but I just saw this and thought I would share for future users. I have been 3D printing daily for 4 years now and have 9 printers and lots of experience with this filament.
My Experience with Sakata 850 filament has been a love/hate relationship. I love the quality that it prints when you can get it to print without jams. But hate the fact that it will often plug the hot end or bowden tube end. I have used the black, white, silver and grey.
First of all i found that this filament does not play well with others. If you have been using another type of filament you are best off to change your nozzle and trim the last 2mm or so of your bowden tube when going to a Sakata filament. No amount of purging seems to clear the old filament enough that it will not plug up the hot end and last 2mm of the bowden tube eventually. And no leakage between the nozzle and bowden tube is crucial for this filament.
I have run this in my Ender 3’s and Tevo Tornado at no lower than 215 degrees and a bed of around 55-60 to ensure adhesion. My retraction for this filament needs to be around 5mm (no more) at 25mm/s retract speed. This way I can usually get successful prints. However due to the higher print temps, and bed temps it is poor for very fine model detail and can sometimes curl a the edges on a large print. Magigoo is answer here!
I have had much better luck printing it with direct drive extruders such as on my Creality CP-01 or converted Ender 3 with direct drives. These do not seem to jamb ever.
I have way better luck using the Standard PLA or the Euro Style PLA sold here and try to avoid Sakata use where I can as it is just too fussy. Also removing supports is almost impossible compared to 3D Printing Canada’s Standard or Euro PLA. If you have to have a lot of supports, avoid this filament.