So as the title states, and the post is being made, i am the newish owner of a cr10s pro.
It seems to have a microswiss hotend, glass and aluminum beds.
Heres the current state of it
It also seems to have suffered from “the blob” of which im assuming is petg. Ive also found some loose screws on the brass backlash nuts attached to the leadscrews. The parts cooler fan duct was broken off. The y axis belt seems a bit chewed up, but good enough for now.
As i clean that up to better assess the state of the hotend, im planning on adding a bl touch. I saw the videos by 3dpc, and am looking forward to seeing what this printer can do.
My question for any cr10s pro owners out there, is there anything particular maintenance wise i should dig deeper into? Also are there any quality of life upgrades that would be recommended?
Also regarding the dual z axis leadscrews. They have a loose fitting bracket/bearing at the top. Is this normal? Should i attempt securing the bearings more with either tape, scilicone or a new bracket?
As i said im going to do the bl touch, and obviously a new duct, im also planning on printing a filament guide.
Heres some pictures of the printer.
I cannot offer advise but I do have a question. Is there something wrong with the inductive levelling? That is the stock probe isn’t it? I found the pinda to be superior to the BL touch why replace it?
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My intentions on changing the stock probe are for simplicity when switching between the glass plate and a spring steel sheet.
I could be wrong, but i wasnt aware of sheet profiles on the cr10 compared to what prusa has. Though i could just put a sticky note on the frame of the different settings between the 2.
Plus i have a bl touch on hand and it seemed pretty plug and play.
Though now you have me questioning “if it aint broke, why fix it” XD
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I can see the glass plate being a pain with an induction probe, I didn’t think of that, tired I guess. Having used both spring steel and glass I am not sure i would mess with the glass at all, personally. Thats me.
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I started 3d printing on glass, and recently upgraded to a smooth glass sheet (previously used a creality textured glass sheet). So far both sheets have printed well for me, and the smooth sheet has a beautiful finish on the bottom of the prints.
I got myself a prusa mini a few months ago with the smooth, textured and satin sheets. IMO the satin sheet is amazing. Both the finish it leaves, and its ease of use.
So even though i mostly stick to PLA, i have ventured into petg, so i like having options to choose from.
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I have the organ smooth sheet on my purse a smooth glass on the mono price and printed texture Creality type on the artillery. I love the smooth spring steel the plain glass is good and the printed glass I not a huge fan of.
I am wearing out the smooth sheets and was wondering about the satin. I don’t like the textured much. I think I will order a satin ! Thanks @Dr.Marvin !
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Yeah, i calibrated all 3 sheets, and other than the inital tests, i haven’t stopped useing the satin sheet. No surface prep (other than cleaning) and so far I’ve printed PLA, PETG and TPU without much problem.
Im trying to keep my eyes out for 3rd party satin style sheets for other buildplate sizes. So far i havent really seen what ive been looking for.
I am not likely to sink more money into the sidewinder it will stay with the printed glass and glue because the printed texture doesn’t work well.
My MK3s I have two PEI spring sheets they both are starting to wear, I might order a satin from Prusa for it, if they are back in stock again.
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