Stepper driver burnt out, but why?

Hi guys and gals!

Artillery Sidewinder X1 - has been through about 100 hours of print time and no parts have ever been touched or replaced.

I started a print, about a minute into the print, the printer just shut off. So I opened it up to inspect the power supply.

  • Switch fuse still good
  • 235V ac going in at the PSU terminals
  • 24.3V DC coming out of the PSU to the motherboard

I didn’t notice any spikes but my multimeter is cheap. But I still don’t suspect the power supply.

As I was testing for AC voltage at the PSU, the Y axis stepper motor driver lit up and caught on fire.

Here’s an image of the blown driver: Screen-Shot-2022-10-31-at-12-40-40-PM — ImgBB

The cables are fine, the y stepper driver to the y motor cable is fixed in place with no damage, looks good.
The y axis moves freely, no binding or resistance.

A few questions:

  1. Will a 3d printer turn off if a stepper motor goes bad? I would expect only an error.
  2. What would cause a stepper motor get blown?

How can I troubleshoot this problem to figure out the cause of the printer turning off and the stepper motor blowing?

I’m ordering parts, I need to know what parts I should change out.

Thanks!

The most likely cause of your problems is that you shorted an AC power pin with the 24V pin when you were checking the AC voltage.

Where are you getting your 235V and what kind of AC/DC power supply are you using?

Can you pull the Y Axis driver? If so, you should check to see if your controller board along with your user interface is still good but I doubt it (the 3.3V/5V onboard DC/DC is probably fried).

Good luck, this is a pain when it happens.

That is odd, I have an X1 and had nothing but issues, strangely not your issue. Good luck. I am on my 4th board, I suspect poor QC somewhere.

Hi @ClintonLee83

Welcome to the forum, Glad you found us. Your pic you have up there does unfortunately look a bit on the ugly side.

I cannot tell for sure what the component is in the lower right corner of the stepper driver, I am assuming it’s a capacitor or rectifier of some sort. Just looking at the way it blew it looks like a direct short somewhere. Based on the pin it’s close to I am assuming the pin is either V+ or GND. Usually, they are in opposite corners of the stepper driver. Based on this I would have to assume there is a short somewhere on this axis. I know the flat ribbon cables were bad for the connections at the ends disconnecting from the carrier. If it was me I would check the continuity of the cable both end to end and cross conductor. I would suspect there is going to be an issue there.

The most common reason for stepper drivers to blow is connecting a stepper motor while it’s powered on. It does draw some serious amperage and commonly does blow the driver. Now this being said it can happen in 2 ways. 1 you see a wire is not fully connected during a print and you push it to reseat the connector (it’s just human nature) and while you are plugging it, the driver blows. 2nd most common which is the situation I think you are in is where there is wiring fatigue, With the repeated operation, the wire breaks internally, over time the “break” gets bigger and eventually it actually separates and reconnects the wiring as the printer operates. Essentially the same thing and plugging it in when it’s powered up causes the driver to blow.

The last part of your question about shutting off a 3d printer if a driver blows, Mostly no, However, if when the driver blows it ends up shorting out to the ground then yes it will absolutely shut down the printer.

You guys are awesome!

I think the obvious thing to do at this point is to replace the driver then I’ll troubleshoot:

  • Check for continuity between wires on the y axis cable, if good then…
  • uninstall y motor and swap with x. if the problem happens again, I’ll be able to see if x driver blows (bad motor) or if y driver blows (swap board if cables are good)

I can’t imagine the cables are bad since they’re fixed in place but I guess I just need to take a look.

Also, the burn marks are between pins GND and VBB

interesting, the VBB is described as Load Supply Voltage (VBB)

That would tell me is probably 24 volts straight from the V+ on the mainboard used to charge the coils. If that popped between that and GND I would be leaning towards direct short.

You should be on the right path to narrow it down.