Strange Banding/Ribbing on CR10sproV2

Can you take a really close look at the layers? In the layers where the walls are thinner, are the layers thicker? That would suggest the Z axis rose too much and the same amount of filament had to fill a deeper void and, hence, was thinner. Alternatively, if the layers are actually the same height, that would suggest the extruder is extruding less. But that would mean the extruder would have to be under-extruding consistently for an entire layer (or, conversely, over-extruding consistently for 6 layers).

Now, there is something Iā€™m vaguely aware of. I wish I could remember exactly where Iā€™ve seen this mentioned before, but I canā€™t at the momentā€¦ anyway, lets say, hypothetically speaking, that you have a printer with a selected layer height of .111 mm. Letā€™s further say, hypothetically, that the printer can only move in increments of .01mmā€¦
So, the first layer would only be .11mm high - because thatā€™s what the printer is limited to.
The second layer would be .11mm highā€¦ the top of this layer should be at .222 but is limited to .220
The third layer would be .11mm high ā€¦ the top of this layer should be at .333 but is limited to .330
The fourth layer would be .11mm highā€¦ the top of this layer should be at .444 but is limited to .440
But the fifth layer would be .12mm high - the top of this layer should be at .555 but it gets rounded up to .560 and would appear as an extra deep (and under-extruded) layer.
Layers 6, 7 8, and 9 will be .11mm then the cycle will repeat.

As I say, I wish I cold remember exactly where the real-world example of this was, but it was due to a rounding error in the Z-axis gets made up for at regular intervals. Basically, itā€™s a disparity between what the Z-axis is being asked to move vs. what itā€™s actually capable of. That is to say, you must ask it to move an exact multiple of what itā€™s capable of. Anything other than that produces rounding errors that (I think) will manifest themselves as youā€™re seeing in the photo.

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are you refering to the steps that the stepper is capable of ? in other words magic numbers ? and workin within those parameters ? as far as i know this is why most people use integers of .02 in their z-steps. i have always used this as a rule of thumb

i will have a closer look at the print and get back to ya, thanks for all the replies guys

just did an e-step calibration, and it was still good.
in regards to the thinner layer being higher its really hard to be certain however it looks like it is. i would hate to be wrong about that since it could derail troubleshooting in a wrong direction haha

I think Lego is on to something here. If you print an overhand calibration shape it will stagger the layers and make them easy to measure. Then we can figure out why itā€™s happenig

what do you mean by ā€œoverhand calibration shapeā€ ?

well this is the one Iā€™ve used before, thereā€™s lots similar shapes around, this one only takes 15 minutes though

actually, you could put a dial indicator on it and see if tiny steps inputted manually give you the expected movement every time.

yeah, im currently printing a bracket to hold an indicator hehe.

will check that as well as try the test print

-thanks

just had a thought, maybe its nothing butā€¦if the hotend is not parallel to the X travel then, that could cause a different layer moving on X+ as opposed to X-, essentially it will be dragging filament one way but not the other ? i dunno, il add it to my list of things

well on mine if the Z-axis supports arenā€™t parallel ( and not racked ) I canā€™t level the bed. The nozzle is offset to the X-axis (cantilevered) so if one side is torqued back as it goes up in Z itā€™ll twist in the X motion. the mesh for automatic leveling relies on the Nozzle following a flat plane, I feel like that would only cause you trouble in big prints though. Yours seems to happen evenly across the prints youā€™ve shown.

i havent had a chance to check the z movements with an indicator yet, but i did print out the overhang testā€¦heres a few pics

forgive me this may be a little bit of a side step but, I did have this issue on a customer machine here at the shop. It was the Z-axis leadscrew that was touching the stepper motor shaft but not at a perfect 180deg. so the flex coupling was not able to work with the imperfection at the end of the leadscrew. every revolution it would ā€œpopā€ back to as straight as it could get.

I loosened the grub screw on the coupler, moved it maybe a mm off the end of the stepper and tightened again. immediately the banding went away. the flex coupler couldnā€™t work in the particular was it was installed because there was about 15deg angle in the end of the leadscrew.

Donā€™t want to hijack the thread just thought about what I have seen in the past.

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i appreciate the feedback, and its something i have seen myself.
the leadscrew and motor shaft are seperated in my case however.

infact, the problem is persistent whether i use flexible couplings or solid ones

fair enough, it looks like you have already checked the common stuff which is why I didnā€™t wanna hijack the thread. I think Lego is going down the right path with troubleshooting. Just tossing my 2c into the mix :slight_smile:

is it easy to see and measure the Z height where the error bands are to compare?

You can certainly see the errors

yes, they are spaced every 1.5 mm roughly. but that changes depending on the layer height. in this case my layer height is .2 if i were to print in .12 for example the bands would be smaller

no worries Jason, any ideas at this point are a help, im really pullin my hair out with this one haha

Is the print direction changing with any kind of coincidence to the effects youā€™re seeing? I.e., clockwise for several layers then counterclockwise?

not to my knowledge, this is why i was thinking if my hotend was skewed one way it would ā€œwipeā€ one way and not the other. im still plugging away at this.
il doublecheck the direction but im 99% sure it always travels one way