Just got a roll of red transparent filament . PETG ROHS brand. Question is I’ve tried of different heat settings and beat temps and it all comes out pink in colour and is very spongy. Seems to be stringy. Had the nozzle set down to 200 c and back up, but made no difference. Ender 3, direct extruded. Glass bed. BLT. Any ideas, thanks
Is the filament dry?
The pink could be just thin sections. The red Petg translucent filament I had last was red it just went light red to dark red. I would venture to guess that is an effect of the pigments. I think it was Atomic filament but it might have been prusament. Both have high pigments in them.
Id try drying it and see if that helps. Also petg can rip chunks out of a glass bed, fyi.
Just to be clear(er), when you call it:
What brand is it, actually? RoHS is an acronym for “Restrictions on Hazardous Substances” and is a mark found on many, many products to signify that the product bearing the mark complies with European Union safety standards, usually with respect to toxic materials.
I’ll second the suggestion to dry the filament. I just finished doing battle with a wet roll of 3DPC’s Orange Value PLA. It was my third roll and went into the printer minutes after arrival, but had all the printing characteristics of wet filament. It’s notable because I printed three rolls in a row for a large-ish project and the first two rolls were beautiful. The third roll was still vacuum sealed, so there’s obviously a quality control problem, probably at the manufacturer, or at least spooler’s level.
My point is twofold:
- just because it was a new roll, doesn’t mean it wasn’t contaminated with moisture
- there are quality control problems in the supply chain, so don’t be too quick to judge the filament based on that one roll (assuming it’s your first).
If that last roll of Orange had been my first roll of 3DPC’s Value PLA, I doubt I would have bought anything further of that brand, given that I was very much a noob when I first bought Value PLA. Now that I know have variable the quality control can be, I’m more forgiving and just throw it in a dryer over night.
Also, someone posted a super-useful Pictorial Guide from RepRap that might help you:
https://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
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I believe we spoke on the phone what I was helping you with ypur problems.did it helped can you explain if it did or didn’t
I encountered a roll of “rohs filament” made in China. It was super cheap low quality stuff. I think i saw it at under 10 a roll. I was given a plan roll sample if memory serves. I printed a few prints and gave away the roll. It was not a solid pigment.
My advise is buy a good quality filament it is often easier to print and does not suffer poor pigment density. Drying the filament can help if there is issues, new nozzles too.
The filament was bought through 3D Canada and the stickers were on the box it came in. I had dried the filament for three days in a dehydrator and it came out not as pink as the first. It is still not red enough. The temp was set at 215/to 230 and the bed at 60 to 70; 99% fill at 45 speed.
I think I paid about 30:bucks for the roll. Maybe thIs brand is a cheaper product. Is there a brand that has a better transparent red that I could use ( for tail light lense ).
I don’t actually know. You and I are working to generally the same goal, (to make a tail-light) but I haven’t got to the point of actually printing it yet. My strategy was to use coloured LED’s and a transparent, clear, cover to put on my electric lawnmower (aka mini Tesla). I have other things to work out first, such as how to make a turn signal control for the steering wheel.
I’ve designed the lens to fit over and into the cavity on my side by side. The lens fits great but the color is to much pink.
You need to tune wall thickness and use a high quality dense pigment filament. I made a number of orthochromatic safe lights. I used Prusament and atomic filament both worked well Prusa carmine was better for my need.