Tronxy XY-2 Pro Titan hotend replacement

I foolishly waited too long to clean a leak in the hotend, to the point I couldn’t get the nozzle out. Not to mention the two tiny wires going into the hotend are eternally sealed in with plastic. So, I need a new hot end, but not sure exactly which one. Everything on Amazon is listed as an Ender replacement. No mention if they’re compatible with tronxy. Can someone please post a link to a compatible hotend from

I don’t own a tronxy, so I will not link amazon. Also Amazon is not a good place to buy parts 3DPC, digital makers, spool3d, voltatek, aliexpress. All but ali will help with the right purchase.

I always start with the manufacturer.

They list the parts and lots of info.

The heat cartridge for example:

External diameter:6mm

Rated voltage:12V

Rated power:40W

Use for:3D printer extruder

We know from images it is bare wire terminal. (end is just wire) we know it is 40w and 12 v. searching produces:


Bought a 12v hotend. My printer refused to heat it up, saying “not enough power”. So i used the new thermistor (the old one had broken), and the old cartridge heater, and it worked right away. However, it now keeps shutting down/restarting itself. I took the bed off to see if there was some sort of issue with that connection, and saw it is labelled “24v”.

Can the thermister that came with the 12v hotend be causing an issue?

If you bought a 12V hot end for a 24V printer, you will need to replace the heater element with a 24V model.

Let’s assume the heater is rated ate 48W. I don’t know what “normal” would be, but 48 divides nicely into 12 and 24 so I’ll go with it.

That would mean there electrical resistance of your 12V heater is E^2 / W or 12*12/48 which would be 3 ohms.

Put that 3 ohm load across 24V and you’re drawing 8 amps.

In contrast, the resistance of a 24V heater would be 24*24/48 which is 8 ohms.

That 8 ohm load across 24V is only 3 amps. That’s why your printer is saying you’re drawing too much power: you’re trying to draw 8 amps when you should only be drawing 3.

Replace the heater with a 24V model. There are other options, but believe me, this is the easiest, and possibly cheapest.

That explains why the new heat cartridge didn’t work. Figured it was just junk haha Would the thermister be different as well?

@Jeffopentax hey that looks like my fault. Send me a PM I’ll pay for my error. Sorry. Super weird Tronxy lists one heater for all their printers. 12v 40w.

Technically, it should have nothing to do with the thermistor. Having said that, there are different models of thermistor with different characteristics all of which can be programmed for in software. The easiest thing would be to find out what the original was, but if you can’t, just change the model being used in the firmware.

I say “just change…the firmware” but I’ve never actually done it myself on a printer :slight_smile:
Hopefully it’s easier said than done. I’m 99% certain that it’s simply a text file where you comment out one thermistor model and removed the comment from the one that you want, but someone else would have to help you with the specifics, if it comes to that.

No worries! I needed a whole new hot end since my was shot, but my cartridge heater was still good, so it all worked out :slight_smile:

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I tell ya, these printers are like cars. Fix one problem, and another arises! Finally got the hotend all sorted and working. Now when i try to preheat the bed, it shuts down. Checked the solder joints, they seem solid and clean. Certainly no lack of solder. I assume the auto shutdown is a safety feature tripped by a short somewhere. Should i replace the wiring?

Do you have the option of heating the bed separately from heating the hot end? If so, try that. It won’t “fix” anything, but it’s a diagnostic test to see if it’s just the bed that’s causing this or the the bed in combination with the hot end.

If the controls don’t let you heat one separately from the other, unplug the hot end heater (but not the thermistor, if that’s an option). Of course, depending on how the hardware and software are designed, it may be able to detect the disconnection and refuse to proceed from there, but it’s worth a try.

My guess is the bed will work without the hot end and the hot end will work without the bed but ne’er the twain shall meet.

If I’m right, then I’ll bet that when you replaced the hot end, you replaced it with one that was rated hotter than the original. That is to say, if the original was rated at 40W, you replaced it with a 50W unit. If that is correct, then you’re drawing more power than the power supply can produce and it’s shutting down.