Which One Should I Buy - Creality CR-10 Smart, CR-10 Smart Pro or CR-10S Pro v2?

Which One Should I Buy - Creality CR-10 Smart, CR-10 Smart Pro or CR-10S Pro v2?

CR-10S Pro v2

  • $700CDN
  • auto bed levelling
  • cloud based
  • proven record
  • Meanwell power supply

CR-10 Smart

  • $500CDN
  • no bed levelling ← easily add
  • x-axis light
  • Creality power supply
  • Carborundum glass bed
  • cloud based
  • wifi and networkable
  • BL Touch

CR-10 Smart Pro

  • $1000CDN
  • manual bed levelling
  • Creality power supply
  • overhead LED light
  • Creality S1 metal head <— is it worth the $$$
  • magnetic PTE bed
  • cloud based
  • wifi & networkable
  • BL Touch
  • web cam <— heard it’s junk

I have a Creality Ender 3 v2 with a Micro Swiss hot end & direct drive, BL Touch and the Creality Z Extension. Printer works well 230 x 230 x 400 but prefer a larger build volume 310 x 310 x 400

I was contemplating on modifying my E3V2 by to accept the CR-10 310 x 310 bed with an estimated cost of $250 to $300. I’ve decided to shelf that idea for a second printer. Thought it would be nice to print 2 items at the same time.

Is the Creality Smart Pro worth $500 more for the following:

  • manual bed level
  • magnetic PTE
  • Creality S1 Pro
  • overhead light
  • web cam

Comparing the CR-10s Pro v2 to the CR-10s Smart/Smart Pro… does the CR-10s Pro v2 printer better than the new Smart series?

Thoughts / Opinions??

I am not a fan of Creality or the subsidiaries of the parent company 3D technology co.ltd. Aside from the fatal fire last year or early this year. tronxy 3d technology co ltd (thermal runaway not enabled even though it was pointed out. ages ago) That they often have not fully thought out designs and as such and require modding to work well. To me it seems there are better options that will be fully supported by the manufacturer (not relying on community support) that have better safety records and brand name parts not clones with poor QC.

I would suggest also looking at Monoprice and Prusa.

If you do stick with Creality buy from a Canadian supplier that has opened the boxes and actually check the printers to meet Canadian standards. They should be marked as such. If you get a certificate and it isn’t in french and English it is nothing.

My last printer the connections were not only bad but 100% dangerous. It took almost 100% rebuild to make me feel like it was safe. By the time I re did all the connectors replaced all the boards squared the frame, replaced the hot end twice, the bed three times, Belts 1/2 the steppers. I more than doubled the cost and it prints ok. Not awesome, and not as well as my Prusa or my monprice. So it is worse, more expensive and slower.

My 2¢.

Another option. You can get the 300 x 300mm Ender Extender kit for about $150 US for your Ender 3V2 which would, with the Z axis extender you already have, the build area of the CR-10.

Other then that do you need the cloud based option, do you need WIFI. The Creality power supply is probably OK. You can get the SMART and add a CR touch, mag bed or equivalent (and probably better) and lights etc. and save a few bucks or get the pro V2 and it is ready to go.

Is the S1 head better, that is depends on what you want. There are other direct drives that are probably better. The SMART PRO doesn’t sound like a better deal for what is offered. As stated you can get a Prusa but that will cost twice what the most expensive CR-10 option is. It’s all about what you want and it’s your money.

Hi, @Byee Welcome to the Forum, Glad you found us. Love your question

I personally am a Creality guy, not that there are not others out there, I am just comfortable and familiar with the line.

I did want to make one small correction, the 10SPro V2 is not cloud-based out of the box, you can add it but the creality cloud boxes are included with the smart line.

Everything we sell here at 3DPC is ETL certified and registered so you don’t have to worry about that. The Printer I would pick in your situation is the 10 Spro V2, for a couple of reasons, It’s tried and true and rock solid printer. Its very close in operation to your existing printer would be a very tiny learning curve with the touch screen only. some of the spare maintenance parts you may have for your 3V2 would fit in a pinch on your Pro V2 as well. The nozzle would be a major difference but the design is very similar. it does have auto bed levelling and a huge amount of community support for it.

I hope this helps, hope to see you here often

Jason, I though you guys were using CSA group for the certifications? when did that change?

we have always used ETL, If you want to be technical about it CSA and ETL both ref the same standards,

I consider them really to be interchangeable.


I can just hear my cousins melt down if he ever read this, he works for CSA group. I am fairly certain the good people at Intertek and Underwriters would argue that as well. I do see your point.

It is all the same CE code, as long as it is checked to it that is. How they check is the only real difference.

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I also agree someone is screaming reading this however, You may play for different teams but you all ensure the same rule book is followed.

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Thank you for your valuable advice!

Would you know if the 10S Pro v2 can be connected to my computer directly or will I be required to put the gcode files onto a SD card then placed into the printer?

Are you using a Mac or PC or Unix? Macs tend not to interface easily to Creality. In my experience an SD card is really the best way.

the 10Spro uses sneaker net (SD card from computer to the printer) there is no wireless option unless you go with octoprint. only something labelled “smart” from creality is wireless or anything with a Duet in it.